Kapitola pata

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Phnom Penh

„Kdyz bojuji sloni, umiraji pouze mravenci“ (stare khmerske prislovi)

Do Phnom Penhu jsme se vydali zajimavejsi vodni cestou po jezere a rece Tonle Sap. V Phnom Penhu jsme se ubytovali na prijemne klidnem miste na brehu jezera Boeng Kak, ktere kontrastuje s hektickou a prasnou atmosferou hlavniho mesta. Po zbytek dne jsme si udelili osobni volno k posedavani na terase, popijeni mistniho piva Angkor a ochutnavani toho, co nam pani domaci navarila. A varila dobre. A libili se ji bili „prsati“ muzove :-]

Druhy den jsme vyrazili na okruh mestem prohlednout si kolonialni stavby, nejznamejsi chram Wat Phnom, hlavni trznici postavenou Francouzi ve stylu Art Deco, kde lze koupit temer vse. Pred trznici je spousta stanecku tvoricich spleti uzkych ulicek. Uvnitr dominuji zlatnicke kramky. Lze se tu najist nebo koupit I takove speciality jako ruzne druhy smazeneho hmyzu. Na velke smazene pavouky jsem ale nenasel chut a ani odvahu, velke brouky a kobylky spatne travim, tak jsem ochutnal pekne masitou larvu s ocekavanim prijemne krupave pochoutky. Jenze tentokrat byla asi jina uprava, takze chut byla divne moucne mazlava a mel jsem trochu problem ovladnout zaludek…

Nejvetsi atrakci je Kralovsky palac a Stribrna pagoda, jenz ma podlahu ze stribrnych dlazdic.

Kambodzsky kral Norodom Sihamoni je asi jediny panovnik, ktery mluvi cesky. U nas studoval balet. Mozna tam nekde je klic k tomu, proc nema zadneho naslednika.

Na nadvori se stupami stoji socha krale Norodoma, kterou venovali Francouzi. Pouzili k tomu sochu Napoleona, ktere jen vymenili hlavu…

V cele zemi a samozrejme I v Phnom Penhu jsou dodnes patrne stopy valky. Prilis se nemluvi o tom, kolik bomb shodili Americane na Kambodzu a Laos v dobe vietnamske valky. Kazdy rok umiraji tisice lidi v dusledku vybuchu neexplodovanych min. A ti, co explozi prezili, potkavate jako beznohe, bezruke nebo slepe mrzaky.

Nejhorsi ale bylo, ze dusledkem teto “tajne“ valky a nasledne destabilizace bylo uchopeni moci Rudymi Khmery v roce 1975 v cele s Pol Potem. To co nasledovalo do roku 1978, bylo nejodpornejsim pokusem o nastoleni komunismu. Odhaduje se, ze Rudi Khmerove zabili,  umucili, popravili jeden az tri miliony kambodzanu, coz byla skoro polovina naroda. V Phnom Penhu zbylo z 2 milionu 23 tisic obyvatel. Vetsinu lidi vysidlili na venkov pracovat na polich pro „celonarodni“ JZD. Samozrejme I tento pokus o vybudovani bolsevickeho raje na zemi skoncil pozdeji hladomorem.

Ve sve podstate to byl mocensky souboj v teto casti sveta mezi byvalym SSSR, podporujici Vietnam a dalsi sireni komunismu a USA, podporujici druhou stranu, ktera toto sireni mela zastavit. V tomto pripade paradoxne USA podporili proti komunistum z Vietnamu jine komouse – maoisty Rude Khmery…Nakonec Vietnam v roce 1978 po vypadech RK a masakrech na svem uzemi obsadil Kambodzu a odstavil od moci Rude Khmery. V dobe, kdy se uz davno vedelo o zverstvech, Americane a ani „tradicni demokracie“ neuznali novou vladu u podporili exilovou vladu Rudych Khmeru…

Pozdeji doslo k urcitemh celonarodnimu smiru, cast RK prebehla na druhou stranu a byla vyhlasena I amnestie. Tim nastalo uklidneni boju, ale take nikdy nedoslo k odsouzeni a potrestani RK. Mnoho z nich zastava vyznamne funkce ve statni sprave (vcetne ministerskeho predsedy!) nebo si spokojene zije. A jiste neciti zadnou vinu a nejsou si vedomi niceho spatneho. V tomto si jsou podobni vsichni komousi na celem svete…

Navstivili jsme muzeum genocidy – byvalou skolu premenenou Rudymi Khmery na „vyslechove“ vezeni zname jako S21. Zazitek to byl strasny a da se tezko popsat. Asi stejny, jako kdyz navstivite Terezin nebo jiny byvaly koncentracni tabor. RK zde vyslychali a nepredstavitelnym zpusobem mucili burzoazni nepratele. Male temne kobky, dratene ramy posteli na kterych zeleznymi tycemi mlatili vezne. Tady to uz nejsou anonymni obeti nebo jen udaje o poctu mrtvych. Tady jeste vidite krev na stenach a fotografie; obeti maji konretni tvare. V nich je strach a hruza. Ve tvarich muzu a zen, mladych I starych. I v ocich malych deti…

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