Péšávár – město květin a pašeráků

Autor: , 8.10.2019

V tomto městě se prolínají dva rozdílné světy – směrem na východ Pákistán jako stát, který se snaží být do jisté míry moderní a směrem na západ k afghánské hranici, kde vládne zvykové právo a kmenové rady. Díky strategické poloze byl Péšávár po dlouhá staletí centrem obchodu mezi jižní a střední Asií, Afghánistánem i Středním východem a rozkládal se na trase hedvábné stezky. V minulosti byl významným buddhistickým centrem pod názvem Pušapur, což znamenalo město květů. Později se stal součástí Mughalské říše, jejíž vládcové přinesli islám a postavili zde zahrady, mešity a další významné stavby. Střed starého města tvoří labyrint uliček, plný zboží, lidí, motorek, oslů, mulů, velbloudů, hluku a smogu. Stále si ale uchoval starou amosféru obchodního rušného centra, které připomnína nejen celá řada čajoven, kde se ve velkých samovarech vaří voda, ze které se připraví nespočet šálků zeleného nebo černého čaje. Pokud zvednete zrak nahoru a máte štěstí, že o něco nebo někoho nezakopnete, můžete vidět úzké věže minaretů starých mešit nebo již poněkud zanedbané a schátralé domy, které dávají tušit, že je vystavěli bohatí obchodníci, i když nádhera jemně vyřezávaných ozdob kolem oken a dveří pomalu mizí pod nánosem prachu a času.

Směrem západním k afghánské hranici se podél hlavní silnice nachází „pašeracký trh“. Označení není úplně správné, i když se tu dá koupit levně různé zboží pašované z Afghánistánu. Tak bychom mohli tuto oblast na první pohled označit my. Jedná se ale o svobodné paštúnské území se svými pravidly, kde vládne zvykové právo paštúnválí a „bratři“ žijí na obou stranách hranice. Opravdu se zde dá koupit snad úplně všechno – opium, kalašnikovy, padělané dolary v různé kvalitě a ceně. Byli jsme zde už po setmění, navíc v pátek v době modliteb, takže většina obchodů byla zavřena. Nakoupili jsme ovoce, po stopadesáte si podali ruce s místními prodavači a odpovídali jim, odkud jsme. Až jsme zašli příliš daleko a jemně nás upozornili, že jsme dál, než je bezpečné chodit. A to je zde třeba opravdu respektovat, protože ta hranice, kdy to je ještě v pohodě a kdy už se může stát opravdový průšvih, je opravdu velmi tenká…

2 Responses to Péšávár – město květin a pašeráků

  1. Jaromír Červenka

    Díky za vkusný a výstižný popis naší společné cesty – netrpělivě čekám na finále…míra

    • Libor Schwarz

      Tak je dobře, že jsi poznal, že to byla naše společná cesta 😀 Finale bude. Doufám, že brzy, už je tak z 50% napsané.

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