Den patnáctý až sedmnáctý – Etosha-velké bílé místo

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Před více než sto lety byly vyhlášeny tři přírodní rezervace, jejichž součástí je obrovská pánev Etosha, která byla kdysi vnitrozemským jezerem. To vyschlo a zbyly zde bílé, zasolené plochy, které působí až přeludně v ostrém slunci. Pokud je dostatek vody, pánev se částečně naplní a přiletí sem hnízdit například plameňáci až z pobřeží od Walwis Bay. Po většinu roku je zde však sucho a zvěř se stahuje k četným napajedlům. A to je právě ideální místo pro pozorování africké zvěře. Úžasné místo. Popisovat zvířata nemá příliš smysl, hlavním důvodem je vidět divokou zvěř přímo v jejich přirozeném prostředí. Přítomnost aut po desítky let a skutečnost, že zvěři od těchto kovových oblud nic nehrozí, způsobila, že se téměř nebojí a lze se tak pohybovat v jejich těsné blízkosti. Auto ale opustit nesmíte, protože potom se můžete stát celkem snadnou kořistí. Jediný problém je, pokud se vám chce na WC. Ještě méně si lze představit situaci, kdy dojde k poruše vozu. Nebo stačí jen píchnutá pneumatika. Naštěstí nás to tentokrát nepotkalo.

Vidět v divoké přírodě BIG 5, tedy lva, slona, žirafu, nosorožce a buvola je cílený “úlovek” snad každého cestovatele v Africe. Nám se ale celou pětku ulovit nepodařilo. Chybí nám vodní buvol, který není v Etoshe, protože ta je příliš suchá a do severních oblastí kolem řeky Kawango jsme se tentokrát nedostali. Žádné zklamání to rozhodně není. Jednak množství zvěře je ohromující a být v obklíčení slonů, spásajících porost po obou stranách silnice nebo pozorovat plaché žirafy, které se obezřetně snaží sehnout a napít se vody z napajedel, je také úžasné.  Rovněž uvidět samici bílého nosorožce s mládětem, která se v noci vynoří jako duch ze savany u napajedla, vás rozechvěje. Nebo pozorování dvou mladých lvů ze vzdálenosti deseti metrů je neskutečný zážitek.


Stejnou radost a potěšení jsme měli i z dalších zvířat či ptáků, které sice nepatří do B5, ale některé jsme neviděli ani v zoologických zahradách. Například podivný pták hadilov písař, který vyhledává a ukopává hady, kterými se živí. Nebo největší africká sova – výr bělavý či drop kori nebo turako světlý jsou parádním “úlovkem”. Bavili nás drzí tokové, ťuhýci rudobřiší, dudek chocholotý, frankolíni a nespočet dalších ptáků, na které je Afrika stále tak bohatá.

Z plazů jsme našli gekony, agamy, zmiji a velkého varana s anglickým jménem Rock Monitor.

Často jsme pozorovali šakala čabrakového, mangusty a různé veverky. Neviděli jsme však v přírodě surikaty, nejoblíbenější zvířátka naší Kačenky. Pouze ochočenou surikatu Carlose v jednom kempu.

Bavila nás prasátka bradavičnatá, běhající se vztyčenými ocásky jako anténky, pštrosi nebo nejrůznější antilopy ? přímorožci, kudu, antilopy skákavé, impaly černočelé, skálolezové a vzácnější travní antilopy či endemické plaché a malé antilopy dik-dik. A mnoho dalších.

U kempů byla vybudována napajedla, odkud se dala pozorovat zvěř mimo auta. Dokonce i v noci, protože napajedla jsou nasvícena. A to je jeden z největších zážitků, kdy v tichu vidíme leoparda přicházejícího se napít za soumraku. Nebo lev se čtyřmi lvicemi. Do toho spousta dalších, pro nás neznámých zvuků. Nebo snadno identifikovatelný řev lva, v noci přicházející odněkud z blízka za zády a způsobující mrazení. To je to nejlepší širokoúhlé kino v HD kvalitě se zvukem dolby surround. Jen se nedá přenést domů, protože jedinečné je pouze tam.

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