Z Mandalaje zpet do Baganu

Autor: , 25.4.2013

V nedeli v podvečer po navsteve mandalajskeho trhu jsme se nechali riksou odvest do hotelu a tak jsme se seznamili s Myent Shinem. Bystry chlapik, ktery se snazil mluvit a stale ucit anglicky. Dohodli jsme na programu na utery, kdy jsme uz zustali v Mandalaji sami. Skupine se trochu zkomplikovala preprava do Myitkyiny na severu Myanmy. Michalovi se podarilo sehnat listky na vlak, ale museli se rozdelit na dve skupiny, kdy jedna odjizdela v poledne, druha v 16.hodin. Vlak je podle jeho slov „dost hroznej“ a ceka je 24 – 48 hodin jizdy. Tak snad dorazi do cile a hlavne se zase spoji…

 

Ve utery rano, podle domluvy, nas cekal s nalestenou riksou a v ciste kosili a longyi Shin. Odvezl nas pod Mandalajskou horu, kam jsme vystoupali po vice jak 1 700 schodech. Je zde nekolik svatyni a pekny vyhled na mesto. Je oblibenym mistem mistnich turistu, takze jsme opet pozovali pro jejich fotografovani.

Protoze stup a chramu zaciname byt ponekud presyceni, vybrali jsme dve nejzajimavejsi – Kuthodaw Paya, „nejvetsi knihu sveta „, kde je umisteno 729 mramorovych desek, kazda v male stupe a je na nich vytesano 15 knih Tripitaky. Jejich precteni by trvalo 450 dni. Druhy je Shwenandaw Kyaung, tradicni dreveny barmsky klaster s nadhernymi vyrezavanymi panely.

Nechali jsme se zavezt i na trh s jadeitem, coz je polodrahokam ze ktereho se vybrusuji sperky a sosky. Pred trzistem prodavaji chudi hledaci neopracovane kameny, uvnitr je rezou a brousi a na vrcholu pyramidy je jakasi burza, kde se hodnoti a prodavaji opracovane kusy jadeitu.

 

Shin je dost hovorny a sam otevrel tema politické situace, ktere se turistum nedoporucuje otevirat, aby neprivedli nekoho do peprijemnosti. Velky Bratr se muze divat…Jako velka cast barmancu si preje zmenu a pad junty a doufa, ze to bude, tak jako kazdy rok, uz letos. Nesvoboda pro nas neni tak viditelna. Dostatek jidla, piva, muzi sledujici anglickou fotbalovou Premiere Ligue. Viditelne jsou jen neustale vypadky proudu. Mnoho oblasti ale zustava turistum uzavreno, nevi se prilis o nucenych pracech barmancu, o jejich nasilnem presidlovani bez kompenzaci kvuli ekonomickym zajmum vlady, o zavirani a popravovani politickych odpurcu. Fotografie navstev vladnich predstavitelu ve vyznamnych chramech silne pripominaji navstevy soudruhu v továrnach. I ta fyziognomie vladcu je v necem podobna. Tak aby to bylo opravdu letos… Jenze to asi potrva, protoze Cina podporuje mistni rezim kvuli svym ekonomickym zajmum – velka naleziste drahych kamenu, plyn a vzacne drevo. Snad se toho Shin a jeho dve holcicky dockaji…

 

Brzy rano nas zavezl do pristavu, abychom se lodi vydali na 15.ti hodinnovou plavbu zpet do Baganu po velike Iravade. Jestlize Mekong je nejdelsi rekou, potom Iravada bude patrit mezi nejmohutnejsi. Pri vysoke vode bude jeji sirka temer kilometr. Zije zde i druh sladkovodnich iravadskych delfinu, kteri se vyskytuji jen jeste v Mekongu na severu Laosu, Kambodzi a Vietnamu a v rece Mahakam na Kalimantanu v Indonesii. Vzajemne si pomahaji s rybari v lovu ryb a ti si jich vazi, nebot pry nejednomu z nich zachranili zivot po padu do vody. Delfiny jsme zde ale nevideli, protoze jich zije asi jen 70 severne od Mandalaje a jsou kriticky ohrozenym druhem.

Ve stredu se plavi jen pomala lod, coz znamená spoustu zastavek, palubu zaplnenou do posledního mistecka na zemi a velikou tlacenici prodavacek vseho mozneho k jidlu pri kazdem pristani, aby mely co nejvyhodnejsi pozici a dostaly se jako prvni k bilym turistum. Tech zde bylo zkoncentrovano snad nejvice, co jsme zatim v Myanme potkali. A neuveritelna Nemka, ktera si vezla perfetni vybavu, vcetne motocyklove prilby, kterou si nasazovala zrejme pri kazdem nasednuti do prepravniho prostredku…

Trochu zde maji problem s udavanim poctu, predevsim doby cestovani. V hotelu byla informace o prijezdu do Baganu o pulnoci, v cestovni agenture nas ubezpecovali, ze prijezd bude v 19.hodin. Realita byla nekde mezi – v pul desate.

 

Rano jsme s rezervou odjeli drozkou na letiste. Jenze do letadla v 8,30 nas  neodbavili, ze let je posunut na 12.hodinu. Mozna driv. Cas na posledni nakupy a louceni s Yangonem se zkracuje.

Do Yangonu jsme prileteli kolem pul jedne, ubytovali se v prijemnem Okinawa Guest House a vyrazili na trziste Bogyoke Aung San na posledni nakupy.

 

Jeste poslední vecere v Myanme a asijska mozaika bude bohatsi o dalsi kaminek.

Potom za holcickama a parchantem Robinem, ktery stihl zakousnout sousedum dve slepice.

A potom uz jen zase teseni, az se nam zase podari za rok, za dva nebo jeste delsi dobu doplnovat tu uzasnou mozaiku dalsich poznavani. A mozna, ze budeme doplnovat zase tu jihoamerickou…

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