Kalaw

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Kalaw bylo v britske kolonialni dobe oblibene horske stredisko ve vysce 1 320 m nad morem. Britsky styl, vcetne golfoveho hriste a typickych hrazdenych domu, si uchovalo dodnes.

Od jezera Inle jsme tentokrat zvolili cestu vlakem. Ctyri hodiny kolibave jizdy ubehly prijemne, pro mistni jsme mozna byli vetsi atrakci nez oni pro nas.

 

Jen Pavle spadl bagl na hlavu a odpoledne si sla radeji lehnout, protoze se ji trosku motala hlava.

 

Na tomto miste se zminime o barmskych jidlech. Krome beznych „nudlaren“ a „ryzaren“ na ulici, lze koupit ruzne „smazenky“ – smazena zelenina, ryby a nevimco vsechno nebo z lndie rozsirene samosy (smazene trojhranky plnene ruznymi smesi zeleniny, masa a podobne). V Kalawu jsme zasli do restaurace Sam’s Family, zminovane v LP. Byla to neskutecna harmonie vuni, chuti a barev: avokadovy salat s cibulkou, nemene dobry fazolkovy salat, uzasna rajcatova nebo dynova polevka, vydatna polevka z rybich hlav nebo chutove odzbrojujici thajska polevka, chutove vyvazene kombinace „beef curry“ s bramborovym curry a kesu orisky, krehoucke kureci nebo zeleninove smazene rolicky. Sladkym vrcholem byl lahodny jahodovy nebo avokadovy dzus, to vse uzavrene ovocnou nebo cokoladovou palacinkou. Mnam… Uvazovali jsme, ze bychom zustali dele a jen jedli a jedli…Od prvni navstevy jsme se stali vazenymi hosty Samovy rodiny a seznamili se se vsemi jejimi cleny.

Na jinych mistech jsme ochutnali ryby v ruznych upravach nebo obrovske sladkovodni krevety, grilovane naprosto delikatesni. Za zminku stoji i mistni vino. Na svazich kolem jezera Inle se pestuje vinna reva. Ochutnali jsme bile vino, ktere je silne, s vysokym zbytkovym cukrem, barikovane a lahodne.

 

Puvodne jsme nechteli prilis prepinat sily a rozplanovali jsme jednodenni vystup na vyhlidku na dva dny s prenocovanim a udajne skvelym jidlem v nepalske rodine, ale nekdo nam mista na spani vyfouknul. Vyrazili jsme tedy jinou cestou s dementne vypadajicim a zpomalene vyhlizejicim sikhskym pruvodcem na trasu, ktera nebyla az zase tak lehka a merila urcite vice jak 40 kilometru. Prvni den prinesl spise zklamani, protoze obed ve vesnici byl dost hrozny a znacna cast trasy vedla po kolejich. Zlepsovat se to zacalo az vecer, kdy jsme dosli do vesnice, kde jsme nocovali. Bydleni proste, ale jidlo vynikající, stejne jako snidane, ktera byla mnohem pestrejsi, nez vsechny predchazejici i budouci v hotylcich slozene vzdy z vajec na nekolik zpusobu, tri bilych toastu a jamu. Pochutnali jsme si na guacamolu s toasty, smazenych bananech, vejcich na tvrdo a trene buchte.

Cesta se rano po prudkém stoupani vinula krajinou pres vesnicky obyvane ruznymi etnickymi kmeny, ktere dodavaji zajimavost trekum v teto oblasti. Pochod se misty vine borovicovym lesem, obcas po neskutecne prasnych cestach a kolem barevnych policek. I kdyz bychom ho nezaradili mezi deset nejhezcich treku sveta, rozhodne to bylo prijemne zpestreni cestovani korunovane skvelou veceri v „Samove rodine“, jejiz slozeni mel snad uz kazdy naplanovany behem treku.

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