Jezero Inle

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Rano (spis jeste v noci) ve 3 hodiny nastal dalsi 14. hodinovy presun k jezeru Inle. To jsme jeste netusili, ze jeden z nejdrsnejsich. „Tiger Head“ – jedina spoleènost zajistujici prepravu do techto mist, by se mela jmenovat spise „Wolf Head“, protoze jizda na otevrenem nakladacku byla jizdou na vlcim hrbete. Doslova. Male kovove sedacky, kde byla citit kazda ostra hrana a na kterych se nedalo pro nedostatek mista sedet rovne, nizka strecha, pod kterou se dalo sedet jen shrbene, k tomu stale se hromadici veci k preprave, kdy nam pod nohy nalozili pytle s ryzi, takze se nedalo sedet uz vubec nijak. Na korbe asi s deseti misty stridave jelo (viselo ci stalo) az 20 lidi. A navic pri kazdem zastaveni nam dokazovali nakladanim dalsich veci, ze muze byt jeste hur. V jednu chvili jsme vezli i napravu nakladaku, kovove sedadlo ke traktoru, drevo na podpal a prdelatou babu s neskutecne jecivym hlasem. Ridic stridal cigaretu a betel, my nejdrive mrzli, potom se dusili vedrem a prachem, ktery nas menil v sedive rozlamane postavicky. Prezit se da hodne, prezili jsme i tuto jizdu, ale opakovat bych ji rozhodne uz nemusel.

Jezero Inle je 22 km dlouhe, sirku ma polovicni a ve vysce skoro 900 metru nad morem je lemovano vrcholky okolnich hor. Brzy rano, jeste za notne zimy, jsme nasedli na dlouhe cluny k projizdce po jezere. Voda je nadherne pruzracna, plna ryb. Podel brehu a na ostrovech je mnoho vesnic, kde ziji prevazne Inthove. Maji velmi specificky zbusob jizdy na lodkach – stoji na zadi a padluji nohou omotanou kolem padla a tim pad(l)em maji volne ruce k rybareni. Tento zpusob obvykle pouzivaji, i kdyz se turiste nedivaji 🙂

Na plovoucich ostrovech, tvorenych vysusenou rasou a dalsimi rostlinami, pestuji hlavne rajcata, soju a ryzi. Policka obdelavaji z lodek. Plovouci ostrovy a vesnice s domy na kulech vytvari cesty a ulice, kterymi krizuji jezero. Domy jsou prekvapive velke a patrove, v podstate „vicegeneracni“, jak je na jezere zvykem narozdil od pevniny.

Cele to zde pusobi ciste a malebne. Pruvodce nas zavezl do nekolika vyroben stribra, slunecniku, doutniku a lekninovych ci hedvabnych latek a odevu. Zastavili jsme se v nejvyznamnejsim klastere s 5-ti Buddhy a v klastere „skakajicich kocek“, ktere mnisi cvici. Den jeste zprijemnila vynikajici ryba v mistni uprave k obedu.

Za timto jezerem je dalsi, o kterem se nevi. Ani nemuze – vstup turistum neni povolen. „Mam odpovedet jako turistovi nebo jako kamaradovi?“ reagoval na dotaz pruvodce. „No to je preci jasny.“ Nesmi se tam proto, protoze se tam pod vladni zastitou pestuje mak a konopi… Nic zas tak prekvapiveho – junta musi mit zdroje k financovani sveho vladnuti i sveho soukromého nakladneho zivota. Prijmy z turistu nejsou tak velke, proto ma monopol na drahe kameny, plyn, ale i tykove drevo a vsechny dalsi zajimave komodity. A co jiného lze cekat od vlady, ktera dala amnestii nejhledanejsimu drogovemu krali Zlateho trojuhelniku Khun Xaovi. Nekdo musi vynosny obchod organizovat…

Dalsi den jsme rano vyrazili na kratky „trek“ do okolnich kopcu a vesnicek. V jeskynich jsou svatyne a meditujici mnisi. Chodby jeskyne Ta-Eh Gu se tahnou i nekolik hodin. My jsme zasli jen kousek, ale i to stacilo, aby si i pres varovani Pavla rozsekla celo. Pohled na skalni hranu s vlasy, krvi a kousky tkani byl dost nechutny. Par stehu by to sneslo, ale chirurgicka ambulance nebyla po ruce, tak to nekolik plastickych stehu snad spravi bez nasledku.

Protoze jsme fotili vsechno a vsechny, vylet se zacal nejak protahovat. A vesnicani, hlavne deti, radi postali modelem. Pruvodce zacal byt nervozni a po obede v klastere zkratil cestu primo zpet. I tak z toho byl temer celodenni vylet.

Po navratu jsme zapadli do nalevny na dobre tocene a par jsme jich tam dali. Mezitim Janicka, stejne jako ja predchazejici den, zasla na tradicni barmskou masaz. Telo „hnetou“ rukama, slapou po vas, zastavuji tlakem pristup krve do ruznych casti tela, pakou ohybaji koncetiny a vytahuji ke stropu. Je to jine, ale ve vysledku prijemne a uvolnujici. Den i pobyt u jezera Inle jsme zavrsili vybornou veceri.

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