Bagan

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Odpoledne jsme se premistili na 20 kilometrů vzdalene autobusove nadrazi a v 15.hodin vyrazili na 18.hodinovou cestu do Baganu. Predpokladal jsem, ze mnohem horsi prejezdy nas teprve cekaji (coz se uz brzy melo vyplnit), takze tahle jizda byla vlastne luxus a pohoda.

Bagan je vedle Angkoru v Kambodzi dalsi uzasne misto, ktere jsem v Asii navstivil. Na male plose bylo od 11. stoleti vystaveno za 230 let vice jak 4 000 chramu. V roce 1975 postihlo oblast silne zemetreseni o mnoho chramu bylo poskozeno. Na obnove se podilelo UNESCO, ale diky zasahum vlady a necitlivym stavbam pomoc vzdalo. V arealu drive vyrustaly mezi chramy pribytky mistniho obyvatelstva. Kdyz vlada zrejme vytusila priliv penez z turistickeho ruchu a UNESCO, „citlive“ vyzvala vsechny obyvatele k vystehovani behem jednoho tydne a tak vznikl nedaleko Novy Bagan.

 

Druhe mile prekvapeni byl hotel s bazenem vymykajici se beznemu standardu. Dalsi luxus. Az na to, ze Pavlu pri plavani v bazenu hryznul do nosu podivny brouk, ktery se tam taky zrovna potapel.

 

Odpoledne jsme na korbe nakladacku po dvou hodinach dojeli pod 1520 m vysokou horu Popa a vystoupali po strmem schodisti na skalnaty vrchol Popa Daung Kalat s komplexem klasteru, stup a svatyn. Pod schodistem je svatyne se sochami 37 natu (buzku) a je to vyznamne misto jejich uctivani.

Na vrchol vede strme schodiste lemovane drzymi opicemi. Cestou nahoru se nesmi klit a nadavat, abychom naty nerozhnavali, ale jde to jen tezko, kdyz se opicky pro zabavu snazi mocit shora na navstevniky.

 

Mirovy narozeniny jsme oslavili dobrou veceri s vystoupením ohnive fotbalistky a potom u bazenu whiskou ze zasob. Trochu se to nekterym vymklo z rukou a se zasobami jsme zatocili vice, nez bylo zdravo. Oslava to byla dustojna, jen noc byla tezka, ale hlavne bolestive rano pro mnohe, kdyz jsme jeste rozhodne nestrizlivi vyrazeli uz pred osmou na projizdku/prohlidku alespoň zlomku z tech 4 000 chramu.

 

Jako dopravni prostredek k poznavani tohoto mista jsme zvolili  drozky – ponikem tazeny dvoukolak pro dva cestující jako z kolonialni ery. Presuny to byly prijemne pomale a trochu rozhrkane.

 

Takto jsme navstivili mistni trh s ohromnym mnozstvi zajimavych tvari k foceni. Chramu lze navstivit jen limitovany pocet, vybrali jsme ty  vyznamne – stupu Shwezigon Paya, jejiz tvar se stal vzorem pro vsechny pozdeji stavene stupy v Myanme a je jednou z nejstarsich v Baganu; jeskyni chram Kyan Sitha s nadhernymi nastennymi malbami; impozantni Hti Lomin Lo Pahto; nejvyznamnejsi bagansky chram Ananda Pahto se 4 Buddhy; nejvyssi chram Thatbyinnyu Pahto; mohutny a z celeho Baganu viditelny Dha Mayan Gyi ve kterem jsou jako jedine v Baganu sochy Buddhy umistene vedle sebe; atraktivni Sulamuni Temple s nejkvalitnejsim zdivem. Zaver dne jsme si vychutnali pohledem na zapad slunce z pagody Shwe San Daw se strmymi schody. Dojem kazi jen to,ze se tam v tuto chvili soustredi snad vsichni turiste z Baganu, takze zacnete pochybovat, zda je v Myanme opravdu tak malo turistu, jak jsme si doposud mysleli.

 

Prijemne koncici den mohl ale dopadnout tragicky. Koci nejak neodhadl zatizeni vozu a na jednom vymolu se prevratil i s Pavlou a Michalem. Osklive vypadajici prihoda nastesti dopadla jen sokem a par odreninami. Tato prihoda ze zaveru dne nam pripomnela, jak tenka je hranice, kdy se muze stat tragedie…

 

Druhy den jsme brzy rano s Janickou vyrazili na kole k tem mene vyznamnym stupam udelat jeste v rannim svetle nejake zabery. I ostatni stupy maji svuj puvab – uvnitř, kam nas obcas vpustil nejaky drzitel klicu, casto zdobene puvodnimi malbami ci na vrchu, odkud byl uzasny rozhled na stupy vystupujici z ranniho oparu a roztrousene do vsech stran, kam se az dalo dohlednout. Ve vesnicce jsme narazili na maly zeleninovy trh, kde nam opet zapozovalo mnoho divek,zen a deti k fotografovani.

Mistni se snazi prodat tradicni predmety, kresby a lakovane nadobi, ale nastesti to postrada tu neprijemnou vlezlost jako v nekterych jinych zemich. I kdyz nekoupite, casto se s usmevem rozlouci. A pro deti to je i jisty druh zabavy, kdyz s vami tak laskuji.

Potom jsme se vypravili do dilny s tradicni vyrobou lakovanych predmetu a nabytku. Zakladem ja opet bambus a priropdni cerny lak nanaseny az v 15.vrstvach.

Odpoledne na nas padla lenost a povalovali se u bazenu. A cerpali sily na dalsi dlouhy presun. Jak se ale brzy ukazalo, ani to nebylo dost…

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