Kapitola dvanacta

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Vientiane

Tech 24 hodin cesty da zabrat, i kdyz se jelo na limetkach… Vecer jsme meli akorat tak silu dojit kousek k Mekongu a dat si k veceri vybornou mekongskou, na grilu delanou rybu a koukat na druhy breh do Thaiska. Druhy den jsme se vydali na prohlidku mesta. Francouzsky vliv je zde patrny na prvni pohled – siroka hlavni trida s “viteznym obloukem”  vylitym z betonu puvodne zakoupeneho na stavbu letiste.
Vubec ten dojem z Laosu je trochu smiseny. Hned po prejezdu hranice je patrny rozdil mezi bohatym Vietnamem a chudym Laosem stejne jako to bylo viditelne  opacne pri prejezdu z Kambodze.
S Kambodzou sdilel Laos stejne smutny osud behem vietnamske valky. Zeme byla sice navene neutralni, nicmene ji Severovietnamci vyuzivali pro presun techniky a vojska po Ho Ci Minove stezce. Na to USA zacala tajne bombardovat Laos, a to tak intenzivne, ze na neho shodila vice bomb nez spadlo na celou Evropu v dobe druhe svetove valky. Uskutecnila 600 tisic naletu, coz bylo kazdych 8 minut 24 hodin denne po dobu 9. let…
Po ukoceni valky se dostali k moci komousi a vyhlasili lidove demokratickou republiku. Alespon to neprobehlo tak krvave, jako v Kambodzi. Krale a jehor odinu nechali pozdeji internovat a drzeli je tem tak dlouho, az cela rodina postupne vymrela, cimz bylo po mnoha staletich definitivne pohrbeno laoske kralovstvi.
Soudruzi rovnez zacali budovat komunistickou spolecnost a jako vsude tento pokus hospodarsky selhal. Soudruzi dokonce usporadali Obrad vymitani zlych duchu  v byvalem Kralovskem palaci, kteri se podle  komousu  msti za sve vyhlazeni tim, ze ruinuji laoskou ekonomiku . [Tak svadet problemy na jine jde komousum vsude velmi dobre, tohle je ale hodne vesele]
A kdyz ani to nepomohlo, zacaly pomale ekonomicke reformy k budovani trzniho hospodarstvi a zeme se otevrela turistum. Ale vice tem bohatym. Ne ze by zde nebyly batuzkarske guesthausy, ale je tu na chudou zemi relativne draho a ochota smlouvat je velmi mala.
Taky v tech turisticky zajimavych mistech vypadaji skupiny turistu trochu “divne” a stejne divne jim asi pripadame i my, kdyz na nas vytrestene ziraji [nebo ze by to bylo Mirovo hlaskama, kterym nemusi ani rozumet..?]. Asi jsou to turiste, kteri se letecky prepravi na fakultativni vylet do Laosu, navstivi Vientiane a Luang Phabang a potom se letecky zase vrati zpet do nejakeho resortu. A ti zaplati jakoukoli cenu, protoze se jim zda tak jako tak nizka. A mistni dobre vedi, ze kdyz nezaplatime my, zaplati jini. A podle toho se i chovaji.

Pokracovali jsme prohlidkou mesta, prohledli si nejstarsi chram ve Vientiane Wat Sisaket, minuli jsme byvalou kralovskou svatyni, ve ktere byl umisten Smaragdovy Buddha, nez ho ukradli Siamci [ten, ktereho jsme videli ve Wat Phra Kaeo v Bangkoku], zastavili se v nudlarne na skvele “jumbo’ polevce a dosli na breh Mekongu. Bylo to dosti unavne, tak jsem “po cuchu” nasli asi jedinou restauraci s tocenym, navic levnym, BeerLao. V restauraci s ruskym jidelnickem a ruskym majiteli, jsme potkali tri Cechy na ceste kolem sveta, kteri jsou 1/2 roku na cestach a jeste tak rok cestovat planuji. A uz se rozjely vesele historky z cest, roztocily se dalsi dzbanky piva a to tak dlouho, az se vsechno tocene vytocilo.
A potom se mi cas naplnil, dopil jsem, rekl, ze teda jedu, “Ty vole nejezdi jeste”, “Musim, jede mi za chvili autobus”, s kazdym se rozloucil a odebral se na nadrazi na nocni autobus do Luang Phabang, abych po dalsich dvou dnech nasedl na letadlo do Bangkoku a dale domu. Ostatni jsou v polovine cestovani, me ceka uzit si posledni dny a hodiny potloukanim se krasnym mesteckem, ktere je se svymi starymi chramy, kolonialnimi domy, Kralovskym palacem i umistenim na poloostrove sevrenym z jedne strany Mekongem a z druhe Nam Khanem, perlou Laosu, i kdyz uz hodne komercni a vice nez turistickou.

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