Kapitola jedenacta – aktualizace

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Cisarske mesto Hue

Nekolikahodinovym prejezdem  jsme dorazili do Hue – mesta poslednich vietnamskych cisaru. Hue je treti nejvetsi mesto, je ale vyrazne klidnejsi nez napriklad Saigon. Historicka cast je velmi rozlehla. Citadela se rozklada na plose 7 km2, uvnitr je Cisarske mesto velmi podobne Zakazanemu mestu v Pekingu. Je ale podstatne mene zachovale. Mesto bylo v dobe vietnamske valky bombardovane, bylo dobyto Severovietnamskou armadou, ktera byla pozdeji vytlacena, aby ho pozdeji znovu „osvobodila“. Vysledkem bylo castecne zniceni Cisarskeho mesta, takze jsme si spise mohli domyslet a predstavovat si jeho velkolepost.
V podvecer jsem si „usmlouvali“ projizdku na Parfemove rece a vecer ochutnali mistni speciality, ke terym patri bahn khoai, krupava zluta placka smazena s krevetami, veprovym a sojovymi vyhonky, servirovana s arasidovou a sezamovou omackou.
Z Hue rovnez pochazel budhisticky mnich Thich Quang Duc. Jmeno nejspis nikomu moc nerekne, ale zato si hodne lidi vybavi „slavny“ smutny snimek mnicha, ktery se upalil na protest proti rezimu prezidenta Diema, ktery byl hlavou proamerickeho Jizniho Vietnamu. Na severu siril myslenky revoluce slovy i ciny strycek Ho a jeho verni soudruzi. To ale neznamenalo, ze jihovietnamsky rezim byl nejak demokraticky. Spise naopak. A proti nabozenske represi timto tragickym zpusobem protestoval mnich Duc [fotka je i na  bookletu desky Rage Against The Machine].

V podvecer nasledujiciho dne, ktery jsme stravili prohlidkou Citadely a Zakazaneho mesta, jsme meli absolvovat 24.hodinovy prejezd do Vientiane v Laosu. Nastaly trochu komplikace, chvili to vypadalo, ze neodjedeme, potom jsme museli priplatit dalsi penize a nakonec nas odvezli na hlavni silnici za mesto, kde nas mel nalozit V.I.P. autobus. Cele to bylo takove podivne, ale VIP bus nakonec dorazil. VIP bus byl laosky autobus obsaveny asi do 1/3 laosany a uplne zarovnany jakymsi kontrabandem, takze pripominal spise paseracky autobus. Naskladali jsme se ale na sedacky, limetky a dalsi potraviny. Jeste vice nas znervoznilo, kdyz trasa do Laosu byla odlisna od posledni informace a navic jsme vedeli, ze v noci je prechod uzavren a ze si na hranicich jeste musime vyridit viza. Tedy pokud bychom zbozi i nas nepasovali pres nejaky prechod, ktery neni v zadnem pruvodci.
Zastavili jsme v hranicnim meste Lao Bao a vyhnali nas z autobusu. Kupodivu i oni vystoupili, zavedli nas do nejakeho guesthausu a ulozili se ke spanku s tim, ze rano v sest pokracujeme. Nevedeli jsme ale, jestli s nami nebo bez nas, za to ale urcite s nasimi zavazadly, tere zustaly v busu. Nakoupili jsme za vsechny vietnamske dongy pivo a pripravili se na nasledujici den.
Krome ranniho handrkovani o penize za nocleh, kdy jsme uz nemeli podle informaci z Hue nic dalsiho  platit, probehl presun na hranici. Uz ani neni treba psat o pohranicniu mafii. Zda se, ze v Asii to je standartni business. Ale to hadani o sumu, kterou i dle ambasady mame platit, je opravdu otravne. Po dvou hodinach stravenych na hranici jsme po dalsich 10ti hodinach jizdy dorazili do hlavniho mesta Laosu Vientiane.

PS. Abych jeste doplnil obrazek o Vietnamu, je treba poznamenat,  ze jsme nevideli zadnou Babetu ani jeji torzo. Vsichni Vietnaci jezdi hlavne na japonskych skutrech. Taky nikdo z tech, kdo se nas ptali, odkud jsme [a ze jich nebylo malo, protoze takhle se zepta kazdy, kdo vas oslovi nebo koho oslovite vy] se vubec nechytal na Czech Republic a ani na Czechoslovakia.  Nepotkali jsem rovnez nikoho, kdo by mluvil cesky, jak se velmi casto uvadi v clancich nebo dokumentech o Vietnamu. Vietnamci o nas maji asi takouvou predstavu, jako bezny Cech o nich…

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