Kermán

Autor: , 28.5.2015

Odpoledne jsme dorazili do Kermánu. I když leží více jak 1700 nad mořem, bylo pěkné vedro.
Kermán je hlavním městech stejnojmenné provincie. Významné je rovněž pěstováním pistáciií. Ostatně íránské pistacie jsou vyhlašené a jsou důležitým vývoznim artiklem. K nám se však tyto kvalitní a dobré nedostanou.
Město bylo založené už ve 3.st.n.l. na trase z Indie do důležitých míst Persie.
Prošli jsme si starý bazar, který má různě staré části. Hnáni hladem jsme hledali nějakou restauraci. Po dlouhém chození jsme zapadli do té nejlepší podle Lonely Planet. Byl to běs a byla pouze nejdražší… Ono to obecně není žádná gurmánská cesta. V Íránu je řada “sendvičáren”, kde se dá rychle a levně najíst, ale dobré restaurace jsou většinou mimo hlavní ulice a jídla jsou trochu jednotvárná. I dobrý kebab s rýží se dříve nebo později přejí… Pestrost íránské kuchyně se dá poznat, až když vás někdo pozve domů na večeři. Nevím, jestli si nás někdo vezme k sobě domů…
Druhý den jsme si vzali “kolektivní” taxi do Bamu. Sdílené taxi je rozšířený a výhodný způsob přepravy ve velké části světa. U nás zatím ne. Co je ale stejné všude, je taxikářská mafie. Včetně určité společné fyziognomie.
Nakonec jsme se dohodli s postarším řidičem z téměř konce dlouhé fronty taxíků. A Bahramí, původním povoláním učitel, jehož syn studuje v Berlíně film, nás provázel i po návratu z Bamu.
Po cestě do Bamu je řada zajímavých “odboček.
35 kilometrů za Kermánem leží v oáze malé městečko Mahán s poutní hrobkou básníka a mudrce Nematolláha Valího. Minarety mešity jsou považovány za jedny z nejkrásnějších v Íránu.

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Nedaleko směrem do hor jsou další perské Princovy zahrady.

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Podle nás jedny z nejhezčích, které jsme navštívili. Asi i proto, že jsou kaskádové, teče zde velké množství vody a kvetoucí rostliny a keře vydávají omamnou vůní. Poležení s čajem a vodní dýmkou pohodu místa ještě zvýraznily…

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Za zahradou pokračuje cesta dal do hor, kde se tyčí 4400 metrů vysoká hora Hezar.
My jsme ale pokračovali dál směrem na Bam s odbočkou do města Rayen se stejnojmennou pevností. I když není tak rozsáhlá jako v Bamu, je mimořádně zachovaná a opravená. Dlouho jsme se tam zdrželi prolézáním labyrintem uliček, domů a místnosti a lezením po hradbách a střechách.

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V podvečer jsme dorazili do přátelského Akbar Guesthausu a ještě před soumrakem jsme se šli podívat na hliněné město s citadelou. Tedy na to, co z něho zůstalo.

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Dlouhý den jsme zakončili v příjemné restauraci, kam nás zavezl její majitel.

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