Království Hunza

Autor: , 2.10.2019

Od Raikotského mostu jsme pokračovali dál na sever po Karákóram Highway, která se probíjí údolím podél řeky Hunza.

Mirové, vládci království, vybudovali před 750 lety nad hlavním městem Karimabádem starší pevnost Altit a mladší Baltit, která sloužila zároveň jako královský palac. Trochu překvapivě se v přijímacím sále nachází v podlaze malý čtvercový poklop, pod nímž byla zásobárna vína. V předislámské době se zde totiž vyrábělo víno, ale dnes je už zásobárna dávno a dávno vyprázdněná.

Údolí díky důmyslným zavodňovacím kanálům vytváří zelenou oázu, nad kterou se tyčí sedmitisicová mohutná hora Rakapoši. Na jaře se údolí vybarvuje květy ovocných stromů a na podzim mnoha tóny barev měnících se listů. Fotografova duše zde může zaplesat.

Večer na vyhlídce vysoko nad městem a údolím mi i místní turisté říkají, že tohle je jedno z nejkrásnějším míst celého Pákistánu.

Postranním údolím podél řeky Hispar jsme se dostali poblíž ledovce Hoper. V této oblasti je snad nejvíce ledovců po hromadě v relativně nízké nadmořské výšce. Společně s globálním oteplováním ale rychleji tají a jednou zřejmě zmizí úplně.

Celá tato severozápadní oblast u hranic s Čínou je rájem trekařů, ale především horolezců. Nachází se zde 5 osmitisicovek – kromě Nanga Parbatu ještě obávaná K2, Gašenbrun I a II a Broad Peak.

Ve staré části Karimabádu se nachází stará vesnice Ganiš se zbytky opevnění a obranými věžemi. Ležela na Hedvábné stezce a byla místem noclehu putujících karavan. Z vesnice a opevnění zůstala jen část, protože v minulosti řadu domů strhl sesuv půdy a část padla nekompromisně za oběť stavbě silnice. I dnes se na tomto místě žije podobně jako v době putování karavan. Doposud se zde mluví odlišným dislektem – berišski. Najednou jsem byl o stovky let zpět. A nikde davy turistů. Tohle je na Pákistánu úžasné. Tohle už přestáváte zažívat v sousední Indii.

Karákóram Highway stoupá dál na sever úzkým kaňonem řeky Khunjerab přes národní park a táhlými serpentinami až do sedla k čínské hranici (4 733 m). Krajina se zde mění a černé skály kontrastují s modrou oblohou a do žluta se barvícími listy stromů. Dál už je jen komunistická Čína.

Cestou zpět jsem si chvíli vyzkoušel jízdu na střeše autobusu tak, jak to v této části světa býval běžný způsob přepravy.

V podvečer jsme ještě sestoupili dolů k řece Hunza, přes kterou vedou na několika místech dlouhé lanové vysuté mosty. I když vypadají bytelně a prkna zachovale, chůze nad prudkou řekou na kývajícím se mostě dává tušit, jaké to může být za špatného počasí nad dravou řekou po jarním tání.

Přenocovali jsme v městečku Gulmit. Místní obyvatelé se liší od ostatních světlejší barvou pleti a občas i světlými nebo zrzavými vlasy. Ženy nenosí šátek, protože zdejší obyvatelstvo patří k sektě ismailitů, což je odnož šiítské větve muslimů. Barva pleti a vlasů má údajně původ od vojáků Alexandra Makedonského, kteří se tu zřejmě zdrželi déle, než by přináleželo běžné době pochodu…

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