Krugerův n.p.

Autor: , 10.8.2014

Problémy s vařičem jsou nám v Africe asi souzeny…černoušci sice jako předvedli funkční vařič, ale buď zhasíná nebo hoří čoudivým plamenem. Čím novější model, tím hůře se rozebírá a opravuje. Po třetím pokusu se dá jakž takž používat.
Všechno je, jak má být, jako bychom tu byli zase jen před pár dny a navázali jsme na minulé cesty…i pata se na mě opět “šklebí“ na stejném místě…:-)
Rovněž jsme velmi rychle přešli na africký režim – vstáváme před úsvitem a po večeři po osmé nejdříve odpadnou holčičky a o něco málo později i my…

Ráno nás čekala téměř 600 km dlouhá cesta na sever Krugerova n.p.
Vyrazili jsme brzy, abychom stihli otevřenou bránu do parku v Punta Maria. Po cestě jsme se nasnídali a zastavili dokoupit nějaké zásoby. Jenže africký koeficient opět zapracoval a my jsme k zavřené bráně dorazili za tmy asi 20 minut po šesté…chvíli to vypadalo, že jsme v pr… a nocujeme před bránou, ale nakonec se ze strážního domku vynořili hlídači a po domluvě zavolali do recepce pro doprovod, který nás dovedl za menší pokutu do kempu. Ještě zbývalo najít místo, rozdělat oheň a stany, dát si skvělé jehněčí a jít spát, abychom byli připraveni brzy ráno vyrazit do parku, který má rozlohu asi jako Belgie. Je 350 km dlouhý a 65 km široký.

Krugerův národní park je největší a nejstarší park v Jižní Africe. Na hranici s Mosambikem na něho navazuje národní park Limpopo, který je ještě větší než Krugerův. Tím se vytváří obrovské území divoké přírody s ohromujícím počtem zvěře, ptáků, hadů i rostlin. Neexistence hraničního plotu zvětšuje migrační území zvěře, umožňuje ale pronikání pytláků z Mozambiku, kteří každoročně zmasakrují stovky až tisíce nosorožců, aby výhodně zpeněžili jejich rohy v Asii. Tam si je místo nastrouhaných nehtů použijí v dobré víře, že budou mít stejně velký a pevný “roh“, jako jejich původní nositelé… Obchod s dobrou vírou je výnosný, hlavně pokud se týká této mužské oblasti:-)

Od severu k jihu se mění přírodní charakter parku a s ním i výskyt zvěře. Naše putování začalo v hornatém a stromy mopani porostlém severu.  Kromě hlavní asfaltové silnice, která prochází celým parkem, je zde mnoho stovek kilometrů prašných cest s odbočkami k napajedlům nebo říčkám. Velkých řek je zde několik a jejich mohutnost je patrná i v nynějším období sucha.
Potom už zbývá jen vstát brzy za východu slunce a být ve správou chvíli na dobrém místě. A pokud budete mít štěstí, uvidíte nosorožce a gepardy, na některých místech potkáte ohromná stáda bůvolů, ve vodě spoustu líných hrochů, přes silnici přebíhající zebry a slony, plaché žirafy a tisíce antilop. A pokud tomu štěstí ještě trochu pomůžete brzkým vstáváním před východem slunce, tak i lvy, levharty a nosorožce.

Ale ani to nemusí stačit…prostě když ještě nemáte štěstí, tak k místu, kde před chvílí stáli lvi nebo se pásli nosorožci, dojedete ve chvíli, kdy tam už nejsou. Nebo tam jste chvíli potom. Prostě se cesty vaše a zvířat neprotnou, i když děláte vše pro to, aby se tak stalo.

V parku nesmíte vystupovat z vozu. Můžete jen na vlastní nebezpečí a na vyhrazených místech. My se považujeme za zkušené, tak si na místech, která odhadneme jako relativně bezpečná, dovolíme vystoupit a pohybovat se v blízkosti auta pro lepší výhled nebo fotku. Na jednom takovém místě jsem vylezl, abych si po ránu, když se již dosti oteplilo, svlékl bundu. Koutkem oka jsem za sebou něco zahlédl, otočím se, kousek ode mě se plíží levhart…no žádné velké drama se nekonalo – levhart si člověka zpravidla nevšímá, pokud není starý a nemocný. Tedy levhart :-).
Spíš je to poučení, že se stále nemůžeme cítit dosti zkušenými.
Na druhou stranu to bylo úžasné setkání s nádhernou šelmou, ze kterého jsme se těšili při každém setkání. Stejně tak s nosožcem válejícím se v bahně při západu slunce nebo pokaždé, když jsme na něho narazili.
Milý je pohled na sloní mláďata, která se chovají podobně jako ta lidská.
Měli jsme radost, že jsme viděli zvířata, která jsme dříve ještě nepotkali – hyeny, které běhaly metr od nás za plotem kempu, huňaté vodušky znamenaté s bílým terčem na zadku, kterými údajně pohrdne pro jejich tuhé a smrduté maso i krokodýl, šeredné psy hyenovité i maličké mangusty.

Od návštěvy parku Maghadighadi v Botswaně před rokem na nás byla zřejmě svržena nějaká kletba, protože od té doby nás opustilo štěstí na lvy, přestože jsme jich v Etoshe viděli spoustu. Už to vypadalo, že uděláme svým způsobem rekord a za šest dní v Krugerově parku nenarazíme na ani na lví pacičku, a to i přes to, že jsme se dva dny pohybovali kolem míst s největší populací v parku…Ta kletba byla asi za to, jak se naše holčičky rvou hůř než divoká zvířátka…poslední den byla ale kletba zlomena a brzy ráno jsme si užili nádherných pohledů na lva pozorujícího východ slunce. A potom ještě další…a spoustu nosorožců tuponosých. Lepší zakončení putování po Krugerově parku jsme si nemohli přát…
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