Albany

Autor: , 16.1.2020

Po dlouhém přejezdu z Esperance jsme se k pobřeží vrátili za Fitzgerald River NP. Zakempovali jsme na příjemném místě pár kroků od pláže Beaufort inlet. Inlet se nazývá jezero napájené řekou a spojené s mořem. Na písčitém břehu jsme si na grilu připravili večeři a pozorovali nádherný západ slunce, který vybarvoval večerní mraky na obloze.

Ráno jsme vyzkoušeli pláže v zátoce Bremer Bay a pokračovali dál v cestě na západ. Plánovanou zastávku v národním parku Stirling Range, s tisíc metrů vysokým nejvyšším vrcholem, jsme museli vynechat z důvodu nedávného rozsáhlého požáru. Protože je zde mírné klima a v zimě dokonce někdy i sněží, místní lesy a vzácné rostlinstvo nejsou uzpůsobeny na časté požáry jako v jiných částech Austrálie a plná obnova může trvat podle odborníků až sto let a některé rostliny mohou zmizet nenávratně. Pohled na rodinku pštrosů emu, pobíhajících po spáleništi a hledajících úkryt mezi zčernalými pahýly zbytků stromů, byl hodně skličující. Zde ale ještě nějaké části lesů zůstaly zachovány a situace není tak hrozivá, jako v místech ohromných požárů, kde se lidé snaží zachraňovat popálené nebo osiřelé a bezbranné medvídky koala…

Jedinou otevřenou silnicí jsme projeli národním parkem a zamířili do údajně nejstarších kopců na světě, vysočiny Porongurups. Tvoří ji dvanáct pahorků, z nichž jsme vylezli na jediný, na kterém je na skalnatém vrcholu vybudována lávka „sky walk“, ze které je pěkný výhled severně na Stirling Range a jižně je již vidět Jižní oceán. Celkem nenáročná dvouhodinová túrka, která ale v horku dává docela zabrat tlustým dětičkám i jejich stejně vypaseným rodičům. Docela jsme měli škodolibou radost.

Albany bylo klíčovým přístavem v 19. století na trase mezi Anglií a zálivem Botany Bay. Přístav byl rovněž místem, odkud vypluly v roce 1914 austalsko-novozélandské jednotky (ANZAC), aby se zúčastnili masakru u tureckého Gallipoli a dalších bojů první světové války. Ze 30 tisíc Australanů, kteří vypluli jen z Albany, se jich 19 tisíc nevrátilo… Nad Albany, v místech bývalého dělostřeleckého opevnění, je vybudován působivý pamatník ANZAC. Nejen zde, ale na mnoha místech Austrálie každoročně vzpomínají hrdinů „Great War“. Na rozdíl od nás, kdy komouš příliš neoslavoval naše vojáky bojující za Mocnářství nebo naše legionáře bojující proti bolševikům v Rusku…

Albany je již o poznání větrnější a chladnější, než okolí Esperance, ale i tak jsem jsme se povalovali po krásných plážích v okolí Emu pointu, poflakovali se kolem hlavní třídy s řadou obchůdků a hospod ve starých budovách a užívali si skvělých ústřic zakoupených přímo v přístavu Oyster Harbour. Objevili jsme i pub, kde čepovali Pilsner Urquell, chuťově připomínající „Plzeň“ 🙂 Ženy zase objevily v obchodech řadu zajímavých věcí k nákupům…

Zavítali jsme do NP Tornidirrup a vykoupali se na divočejší pláži Goode Beach. Na opačné, skalnaté a ještě divočejší straně poloostrova jsme prošli část útesů, kde se nachází Blowhole, hluboká štěrbina ve skále, kterou za určitých vln a větrů stříká mořská voda. Zajímavá byla návšteva velrybářského muzea v místě poslední velrybářské stanice v Austrálii. Do roku 1978 zde probíhal lov velryb, které se zde zpracovávali na výsledný produkt – olej a vysoce protejnovou velrybí moučku… Po prohlídce provozu a fotografií je jen dobře, že tento krvavý business pod tlakem veřejnosti, Greenpeace a ekonomické nerentabilnosti skončil. Jinak by byly velryby v této době nejspíš vyhubeny. Jen člověk je schopen lovit ve velkém tvory, v mnohém případě inteligentnější než mnozí lidé, a dělat z nich olej na různé použití a mouku na krmení jiných zvířat. Případně na hnojení…

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