Teherán

Autor: , 29.5.2015

Ráno jsme si ještě jednou v Kermánu zašli prohlédnout starý bazar. V 11. hodin nás Bahramí pozval s kamarádem někam na rozlučkový piknik. Před hotel přijel na čas, ale kamarád zůstal někde daleko před městem, takže z piknikování sešlo. Zašli jsme tedy na čaj a dali si ve vyhlášené “sendvičárně” dvojitý místní hamburger, abychom se posilnili před 15.hodinovou cestou vlakem do Teheránu.
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Po pečlivé kontrole tajnou policií při vstupu na nádraží jsme konečně mohli nastoupit do vlaku a po druhé hodině odpolední vyrazit. Vlak nebyl nejrychlejší, cesta ale v lehátkovém kupé ubíhala a za oknem se měnila scenérie. Projížděli jsme poušti, kde nás dohnala bouřka a my viděli ohromné kaluže vody v písku.
Počítali jsme s nějakým obvyklým zpožděním, ale ve čtyři ráno mám sebrali deky a za půlhodinku jsme přijeli na teheránské nádraží. Zkusili jsme něco dospat na nádraží a kolem osmé jsme se vydali najít ubytování.
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Rychle jsme metrem vyrazili do severního Teheránu, kde se začínají zvedat pohoří Álborz s nejvyšším vrcholem ve výšce téměř 4 000 metrů.

Teherán je rychle rostoucí megapole. Odhaduje se, že ze žije asi 15 milionů obyvatel a pokud růst bude takto pokračovat, zařadí se mezi pět největších měst na světě.
Teherán byl do 13. století malou vesnicí. V 16.století v safíjovském období bylo město opevněno hradbami a vystavělo se mnoho domů. Později zde byla vybudována královská rezidence a od 18.století se stal centrem země.

Do hor vede jedna z nejdelších lanovek na světě, která vyváží návštěvníky do pátého nejvýše položeného lyžařského střediska na světě.
I v těchto dnech byly v horách ještě zbytky sněhu. Vystoupali jsme na 3962 metrů vysoký vrchol Točal.
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Tím jsme během 48.hodin změnili nadmořskou výšku o 3500 metrů a teplotu o 40 stupňů Celsia v porovnání s Kalucem v poušti Lút (!).
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K večeru jsme brouzdali Darbanem, což je oblíbená část prestižní čtvrti na úpatí Álborzu. K večeru zde proudí davy mladých, zlaté mládeže, celých rodin i starších párů, aby poseděli v některé z čajoven umístěných třeba přímo na horské říčce, dali si něco dobrého k večeři v jedné z mnoha restaurací na úbočí prudce se zvedájících se kopců nebo vyrazili dál do hor, třeba až na vrchol Točalu.
Teprve z těchto míst je vidět, jak je Teherán přikrytý pod pokličkou smogu i díky miliónu aut, která tečou v několika pruzích městem jako řeka. Vlastně vidět téměř není…

My jsme si dali vodní dýmku v příjemné čajovně, abychom zrelaxovali po náročném dni.
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Dokonalou tečkou prvního teheránského dne byl objev skvělé jídelny, kde jsme konečně mohli ochutnat něco z pestřejší íránské kuchyně. A taky jsme se nechutně pře..
jedli.

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Další den jsme zašli na místní páteční trh. Takový teheránský megablešák v několika patrech parkovacího domů. Zde by se dalo asi sehnat vše, nač si člověk vzpomene.

Po zastávce v typické “šíšárně” jsme navštívili image
Národní muzeum, kde jsou exponáty předislámské doby. Tedy i mnoho objevů z období Perské říše a jednoho z nejkrásnějších měst té doby – Persepole.
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Zastavili jsme se u bývalé americké ambasády, kde se v době islámské revoluce odehrávaly významné události. Část z nich napínavě popisuje film Argo. Ten je tu ovšem zakázaný… Zdi bývalého velvyslanectví dodnes zdobí protiamerické a protiizraelské nápisy. Neodolali jsme a chvíli si je fotili, ale brzy jsme pro jistotu místo raději opustili. Budova totiž sloužila dlouhou dobu jako výcvikové středisko islámských gard…
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Den byl náročný i proto, že bylo pod mrakem a neskutečné dusno v kombinaci se smogem. Navíc byl pátek, tedy den pracovního klidu, kdy je převážně zavřeno. Byli jsme tedy rádi, když jsme se v podvečer doploužili do hotelu a mohli si odpočinout.

Poslední den jsme naplánovali návštěvu Golestánského paláce, který je silně inspirován sídly evropských panovníků.
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Ve velkém audienčním sále probíhaly důležité události posledních 100 let šáhovského Íránu, včetně korunovací Qádžárovských šáhů. Výzdoba sálů je uchvacující.

Obraz tohoto období mám doplnila návštěva Národní pokladnice v Centrální íránské bance. V ohromném podzemním trezoru jsou vystaveny korunovační klenoty, šperky a předměty neuvěřitelné hodnoty této éry. Chcete vidět největší drahokamy? Černé diamanty? Žluté diamanty? Největší nerozřezaný diamant na světě vážící 182 karátů? Hromady rubínů, smaragdů? Poklady jako z Pohádek 1000 + 1 noci. Nebo z Alibaby a 40 loupežníků..

Nemohli jsme vynechat návštěvu bazaru. 15 kilometrů uliček obchodů města ve městě. Davy lidí, proud všemožného zboží…nákupní šílenství. Ale trochu jiné, než v našich “bazarech” nastojato – nákupních centrech.
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Z posledních sil a peněz jsme nakoupili dárky a z úplně posledních peněz zaplatili jedno grilované kuřátko, o které jsme se všichni podělili.
Ležíme v hotelovém pokoji a za pár hodin nás odveze taxi na letiště a bude definitivní konec dalšího putování po zajímavé zemi s přátelským lidmi…

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