Bam

Autor: , 28.5.2015

Bam je důležitým milníkem na naší cestě. Jednak se z tohoto místa budeme už jenom vracet zpět a druhak vidět opět Bam a jak se změnil od poslední návštěvy Čepana a Míry. To byl vlastně jejich primární impuls k plánu cesty do Íránu.
Bam totiž navštívili společně v roce 2001, tedy dva roky před ničivým zemětřesením, které tento skvost proměnilo v hromadu hlíny a o kterém se tenkrát tolik psalo.

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Bam byla mohutná pevnost s městem, která představovala důležitou zastávkou na trase z Indie do Evropy a v 12.- 15.století zde žilo více jak 10 tisíc obyvatel. V 19.století se ale téměř vylidniloa a až v historicky nedávné době probíhala postupná rekonstrukce, která z pevnosti a starého města udělala unikát. Po zemětřesení začala znovu obnova, ale i když je řada částí opravena, do původní podoby se tato památka zřejmě již nikdy nevrátí. Je to ohromná škoda pro celé historické dědictví…

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Já jsem ale neměl srovnání, jako Míra s Michalem, tak jsem mohl vnímat za soumraku a potom brzy ráno po úsvitu výjimečnost tohoto místa.
Bam leží na trase Zahedán – Pákistán, kde se často překračují hranice z nebo do Pákistánu. To je právě to místo kousek za hranicemi na pákistánské straně, kde byly před dvěma lety uneseny dvě české dívky. Případ se šťastným koncem, o kterém se tolik psalo a mluvilo. Nebyla to taková nerozvážnost, jak ji mimo dalších označil i hradní opilec, který všechno ví nejlépe. Je to trasa, po které se pohybují desítky turistů, a to i na kole nebo motocyklu. Tohle byl spíše případ shody náhod a nějakého “vytipování”. Naštěstí všechno dobře dopadlo.

Před polednem jsme nasedli do “kolektivního” taxi a přejeli jsme úmorných 200 km zpět do Kermánu. Ve 14 hodin na nás před hotelem čekal Bahramí a odjeli jsme severovýchodním směrem. Náhorní plošina je ze severu i jihu obklopena horami. Vystoupali jsme do sedla ve výšce 2600 metrů a potom jsme rychle klesali na druhou stranu hor nejdříve do 600 metrů a potom ještě o dalších 200 metrů níž do pouště Lút.

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Je to nejteplejší místo na planetě. Naměřená rekordní teplota v létě je přes 70 stupňů(!). Tolik tam naštěstí nebylo, ale úplně stačilo odpoledních 50…

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Bahramí říkal, že to tam je “very danger”. Mysleli jsme, že jako teplotou, ale vedou tam hlavní pašerácké trasy opia z Afghánistánu do Evropy. Museli jsme se dvakrát zapsat na policejní stanici. Když jsme míjeli odtahový vůz, který vezl roztřílený taxík, Bahramí ještě více znervózněl…Pašeráci z Al Kaidy a ISIS jsou skvěle vyzbrojeni a vojáci, kteří proti nim bojují, to nemají rozhodně jednoduché.
My jsme ale nenavštívili toto místo, abychom si užili vedro nebo vyhlíželi pašeráky, ale chtěli jsme vidět Kaluc. Oblast v poušti s úchvatnými útvary připomínající pevnosti či hrady.

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Nízké slunce a prodlužující se stíny zvláštních obrovských útvaru s otupujícím vedrem a potenciálním nebezpečím vytvářely až neskutečný prostor mimo reálný čas…

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Chodili jsme v jiném světě a fotili scenerie jak smyslu

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zbavení do chvíle, než se foťáky rozpálily tak, že nešly udržet nebo hlásily, že byla dosažena kritická hodnota vnitřní teploty…pak se v dálce objevilo auto a zastavilo. Pozorují nás dalekohledem..?.. nebo to je odlesk zaměřovače..? Bahramí chtěl už co nejrychleji odjet. Rozjel auto do vysoké rychlosti a když jsme je míjeli, tak jsme zahlédli fotoaparáty stejně uchvácených turistů…tentokrát to dobře dopadlo.
Ještě vystoupat 2 tisíce metrů, sjet rychle dolů, až mi v uších praská jako při potápění a potom se nechat dovézt do restaurace, kde jsme si dali speciální kebab s rýží :-). Dnes jsme si ho opravdu zasloužili…

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