{"id":996,"date":"2015-05-28T17:32:35","date_gmt":"2015-05-28T17:32:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=996"},"modified":"2015-05-28T17:38:47","modified_gmt":"2015-05-28T17:38:47","slug":"kerman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=996","title":{"rendered":"Kerm\u00e1n"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Odpoledne jsme dorazili do Kerm\u00e1nu. I kdy\u017e le\u017e\u00ed v\u00edce jak 1700 nad mo\u0159em, bylo p\u011bkn\u00e9 vedro.<br \/>\nKerm\u00e1n je hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstech stejnojmenn\u00e9 provincie. V\u00fdznamn\u00e9 je rovn\u011b\u017e p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00edm pist\u00e1cii\u00ed. Ostatn\u011b \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 pistacie jsou vyhla\u0161en\u00e9 a jsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fdm v\u00fdvoznim artiklem. K n\u00e1m se v\u0161ak tyto kvalitn\u00ed a dobr\u00e9 nedostanou.<br \/>\nM\u011bsto bylo zalo\u017een\u00e9 u\u017e ve 3.st.n.l. na trase z Indie do d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fdch m\u00edst Persie.<br \/>\nPro\u0161li jsme si star\u00fd bazar, kter\u00fd m\u00e1 r\u016fzn\u011b star\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti. Hn\u00e1ni hladem jsme hledali n\u011bjakou restauraci. Po dlouh\u00e9m chozen\u00ed jsme zapadli do t\u00e9 nejlep\u0161\u00ed podle Lonely Planet. Byl to b\u011bs a byla pouze nejdra\u017e\u0161\u00ed&#8230; Ono to obecn\u011b nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 gurm\u00e1nsk\u00e1 cesta. V \u00cdr\u00e1nu je \u0159ada &#8222;sendvi\u010d\u00e1ren&#8220;, kde se d\u00e1 rychle a levn\u011b naj\u00edst, ale dobr\u00e9 restaurace jsou v\u011bt\u0161inou mimo hlavn\u00ed ulice a j\u00eddla jsou trochu jednotv\u00e1rn\u00e1. I dobr\u00fd kebab s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed se d\u0159\u00edve nebo pozd\u011bji p\u0159ej\u00ed&#8230; Pestrost \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b se d\u00e1 poznat, a\u017e kdy\u017e v\u00e1s n\u011bkdo pozve dom\u016f na ve\u010de\u0159i. Nev\u00edm, jestli si n\u00e1s n\u011bkdo vezme k sob\u011b dom\u016f&#8230;<br \/>\nDruh\u00fd den jsme si vzali &#8222;kolektivn\u00ed&#8220; taxi do Bamu. Sd\u00edlen\u00e9 taxi je roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00fd a v\u00fdhodn\u00fd zp\u016fsob p\u0159epravy ve velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti sv\u011bta. U n\u00e1s zat\u00edm ne. Co je ale stejn\u00e9 v\u0161ude, je taxik\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 mafie. V\u010detn\u011b ur\u010dit\u00e9 spole\u010dn\u00e9 fyziognomie.<br \/>\nNakonec jsme se dohodli s postar\u0161\u00edm \u0159idi\u010dem z t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 konce dlouh\u00e9 fronty tax\u00edk\u016f. A Bahram\u00ed, p\u016fvodn\u00edm povol\u00e1n\u00edm u\u010ditel, jeho\u017e syn studuje v Berl\u00edn\u011b film, n\u00e1s prov\u00e1zel i po n\u00e1vratu z Bamu.<br \/>\nPo cest\u011b do Bamu je \u0159ada zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch &#8222;odbo\u010dek.<br \/>\n35 kilometr\u016f za Kerm\u00e1nem le\u017e\u00ed v o\u00e1ze mal\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko Mah\u00e1n s poutn\u00ed hrobkou b\u00e1sn\u00edka a mudrce Nematoll\u00e1ha Val\u00edho. Minarety me\u0161ity jsou pova\u017eov\u00e1ny za jedny z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch v \u00cdr\u00e1nu.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432833953340.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432833953340\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432833953340.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834668710.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834668710\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834668710.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834706832.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834706832\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834706832.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>Nedaleko sm\u011brem do hor jsou dal\u0161\u00ed persk\u00e9 Princovy zahrady. <\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834044267.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834044267\" class=\"alignright size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834044267.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Podle n\u00e1s jedny z nejhez\u010d\u00edch, kter\u00e9 jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili. Asi i proto, \u017ee jsou kask\u00e1dov\u00e9, te\u010de zde velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed vody a kvetouc\u00ed rostliny a ke\u0159e vyd\u00e1vaj\u00ed omamnou v\u016fn\u00ed. Pole\u017een\u00ed s \u010dajem a vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmkou pohodu m\u00edsta je\u0161t\u011b zv\u00fdraznily&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834084359.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834084359\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834084359.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Za zahradou pokra\u010duje cesta dal do hor, kde se ty\u010d\u00ed 4400 metr\u016f vysok\u00e1 hora Hezar.<br \/>\nMy jsme ale pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1l sm\u011brem na Bam s odbo\u010dkou do m\u011bsta Rayen se stejnojmennou pevnost\u00ed. I kdy\u017e nen\u00ed tak rozs\u00e1hl\u00e1 jako v Bamu, je mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zachovan\u00e1 a opraven\u00e1. Dlouho jsme se tam zdr\u017eeli prol\u00e9z\u00e1n\u00edm labyrintem uli\u010dek, dom\u016f a m\u00edstnosti a lezen\u00edm po hradb\u00e1ch a st\u0159ech\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834122962.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834122962\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834122962.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834151964.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834151964\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834151964.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>V podve\u010der jsme dorazili do p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9ho Akbar Guesthausu a je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed soumrakem jsme se \u0161li pod\u00edvat na hlin\u011bn\u00e9 m\u011bsto s citadelou. Tedy na to, co z n\u011bho z\u016fstalo. <\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834189513.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834189513\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834189513.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834223638.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1432834223638\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1432834223638.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Dlouh\u00fd den jsme zakon\u010dili v p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 restauraci, kam n\u00e1s zavezl jej\u00ed majitel.<\/p>\n<div id=\"wp_fb_like_button\" style=\"margin:5px 0 5px 5px;float:right;height:8px;\"><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=996\" send=\"true\" layout=\"standard\" width=\"450\" show_faces=\"true\" font=\"verdana\" action=\"like\" colorscheme=\"light\"><\/fb:like><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Odpoledne jsme dorazili do Kerm\u00e1nu. I kdy\u017e le\u017e\u00ed v\u00edce jak 1700 nad mo\u0159em, bylo p\u011bkn\u00e9 vedro. Kerm\u00e1n je hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstech stejnojmenn\u00e9 provincie. V\u00fdznamn\u00e9 je rovn\u011b\u017e p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00edm pist\u00e1cii\u00ed. Ostatn\u011b \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 pistacie jsou vyhla\u0161en\u00e9 a jsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fdm v\u00fdvoznim artiklem. K n\u00e1m se v\u0161ak tyto kvalitn\u00ed a dobr\u00e9 nedostanou. M\u011bsto bylo zalo\u017een\u00e9 u\u017e ve 3.st.n.l. na trase z &hellip; <a class=\"read-excerpt\" href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=996\">Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed&#8230; <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-996","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cesta-do-persie-iran-2015-2"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/996","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=996"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/996\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1001,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/996\/revisions\/1001"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=996"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=996"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=996"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}