{"id":8267,"date":"2019-10-08T20:00:28","date_gmt":"2019-10-08T20:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=8267"},"modified":"2019-12-17T09:53:19","modified_gmt":"2019-12-17T09:53:19","slug":"pesavar-mesto-paseraku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=8267","title":{"rendered":"P\u00e9\u0161\u00e1v\u00e1r &#8211; m\u011bsto kv\u011btin a pa\u0161er\u00e1k\u016f"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>V tomto m\u011bst\u011b se prol\u00ednaj\u00ed dva rozd\u00edln\u00e9 sv\u011bty &#8211; sm\u011brem na v\u00fdchod P\u00e1kist\u00e1n jako st\u00e1t, kter\u00fd se sna\u017e\u00ed b\u00fdt do jist\u00e9 m\u00edry modern\u00ed a sm\u011brem na z\u00e1pad k afgh\u00e1nsk\u00e9 hranici, kde vl\u00e1dne zvykov\u00e9 pr\u00e1vo a kmenov\u00e9 rady. D\u00edky strategick\u00e9 poloze byl P\u00e9\u0161\u00e1v\u00e1r po dlouh\u00e1 stalet\u00ed centrem obchodu mezi ji\u017en\u00ed a st\u0159edn\u00ed Asi\u00ed, Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nem i St\u0159edn\u00edm v\u00fdchodem a rozkl\u00e1dal se na trase hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezky. V minulosti byl v\u00fdznamn\u00fdm buddhistick\u00fdm centrem pod n\u00e1zvem Pu\u0161apur, co\u017e znamenalo m\u011bsto kv\u011bt\u016f. Pozd\u011bji se stal sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Mughalsk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e, jej\u00ed\u017e vl\u00e1dcov\u00e9 p\u0159inesli isl\u00e1m a postavili zde zahrady, me\u0161ity a dal\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 stavby. St\u0159ed star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta tvo\u0159\u00ed labyrint uli\u010dek, pln\u00fd zbo\u017e\u00ed, lid\u00ed, motorek, osl\u016f, mul\u016f, velbloud\u016f, hluku a smogu. St\u00e1le si ale uchoval starou amosf\u00e9ru obchodn\u00edho ru\u0161n\u00e9ho centra, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ipomn\u00edna nejen cel\u00e1 \u0159ada \u010dajoven, kde se ve velk\u00fdch samovarech va\u0159\u00ed voda, ze kter\u00e9 se p\u0159iprav\u00ed nespo\u010det \u0161\u00e1lk\u016f zelen\u00e9ho nebo \u010dern\u00e9ho \u010daje. Pokud zvednete zrak nahoru a m\u00e1te \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, \u017ee o n\u011bco nebo n\u011bkoho nezakopnete, m\u016f\u017eete vid\u011bt \u00fazk\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ee minaret\u016f star\u00fdch me\u0161it nebo ji\u017e pon\u011bkud zanedban\u00e9 a sch\u00e1tral\u00e9 domy, kter\u00e9 d\u00e1vaj\u00ed tu\u0161it, \u017ee je vystav\u011bli bohat\u00ed obchodn\u00edci, i kdy\u017e n\u00e1dhera jemn\u011b vy\u0159ez\u00e1van\u00fdch ozdob kolem oken a dve\u0159\u00ed pomalu miz\u00ed pod n\u00e1nosem prachu a \u010dasu. <!--more--><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8271 alignleft size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05216289232486900832744.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05216289232486900832744.jpg 2000w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05216289232486900832744-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05216289232486900832744-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05216289232486900832744-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8272 aligncenter size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05246581170828560027218.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05246581170828560027218.jpg 2304w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05246581170828560027218-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05246581170828560027218-768x432.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05246581170828560027218-1024x576.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-8273 size-medium alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05222309964093962250945.jpg\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05222309964093962250945.jpg 1500w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05222309964093962250945-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05222309964093962250945-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Sm\u011brem z\u00e1padn\u00edm k afgh\u00e1nsk\u00e9 hranici se pod\u00e9l hlavn\u00ed silnice nach\u00e1z\u00ed &#8222;pa\u0161erack\u00fd trh&#8220;. Ozna\u010den\u00ed nen\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b spr\u00e1vn\u00e9, i kdy\u017e se tu d\u00e1 koupit levn\u011b r\u016fzn\u00e9 zbo\u017e\u00ed pa\u0161ovan\u00e9 z Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nu. Tak bychom mohli tuto oblast na prvn\u00ed pohled ozna\u010dit my. Jedn\u00e1 se ale o svobodn\u00e9 pa\u0161t\u00fansk\u00e9 \u00fazem\u00ed se sv\u00fdmi pravidly, kde vl\u00e1dne zvykov\u00e9 pr\u00e1vo pa\u0161t\u00fanv\u00e1l\u00ed a &#8222;brat\u0159i&#8220; \u017eij\u00ed na obou stran\u00e1ch hranice. Opravdu se zde d\u00e1 koupit snad \u00fapln\u011b v\u0161echno &#8211; opium, kala\u0161nikovy, pad\u011blan\u00e9 dolary v r\u016fzn\u00e9 kvalit\u011b a cen\u011b. Byli jsme zde u\u017e po setm\u011bn\u00ed, nav\u00edc v p\u00e1tek v dob\u011b modliteb, tak\u017ee v\u011bt\u0161ina obchod\u016f byla zav\u0159ena. Nakoupili jsme ovoce, po stopades\u00e1te si podali ruce s m\u00edstn\u00edmi prodava\u010di a odpov\u00eddali jim, odkud jsme. A\u017e jsme za\u0161li p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 daleko a jemn\u011b n\u00e1s upozornili, \u017ee jsme d\u00e1l, ne\u017e je bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 chodit. A to je zde t\u0159eba opravdu respektovat, proto\u017ee ta hranice, kdy to je je\u0161t\u011b v pohod\u011b a kdy u\u017e se m\u016f\u017ee st\u00e1t opravdov\u00fd pr\u016f\u0161vih, je opravdu velmi tenk\u00e1&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-8277\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05362762890945461760288.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05362762890945461760288.jpg 2000w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05362762890945461760288-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05362762890945461760288-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05362762890945461760288-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-8276\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_0533625243451915835305.jpg\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_0533625243451915835305.jpg 1500w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_0533625243451915835305-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_0533625243451915835305-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-8278 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05314251807130151845012.jpg\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05314251807130151845012.jpg 1500w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05314251807130151845012-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05314251807130151845012-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-8279 alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05294083280249124370987.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05294083280249124370987.jpg 2000w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05294083280249124370987-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05294083280249124370987-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/dsc_05294083280249124370987-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<div id=\"wp_fb_like_button\" style=\"margin:5px 0 5px 5px;float:right;height:8px;\"><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=8267\" send=\"true\" layout=\"standard\" width=\"450\" show_faces=\"true\" font=\"verdana\" action=\"like\" colorscheme=\"light\"><\/fb:like><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>V tomto m\u011bst\u011b se prol\u00ednaj\u00ed dva rozd\u00edln\u00e9 sv\u011bty &#8211; sm\u011brem na v\u00fdchod P\u00e1kist\u00e1n jako st\u00e1t, kter\u00fd se sna\u017e\u00ed b\u00fdt do jist\u00e9 m\u00edry modern\u00ed a sm\u011brem na z\u00e1pad k afgh\u00e1nsk\u00e9 hranici, kde vl\u00e1dne zvykov\u00e9 pr\u00e1vo a kmenov\u00e9 rady. D\u00edky strategick\u00e9 poloze byl P\u00e9\u0161\u00e1v\u00e1r po dlouh\u00e1 stalet\u00ed centrem obchodu mezi ji\u017en\u00ed a st\u0159edn\u00ed Asi\u00ed, Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nem i St\u0159edn\u00edm &hellip; <a class=\"read-excerpt\" href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=8267\">Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed&#8230; <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[41],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8267","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-pakistan-2019"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8267","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8267"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8267\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11548,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8267\/revisions\/11548"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8267"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8267"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8267"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}