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<\/p>\nOd Raikotsk\u00e9ho mostu jsme pokra\u010dovali d\u00e1l na sever po Kar\u00e1k\u00f3ram Highway, kter\u00e1 se prob\u00edj\u00ed \u00fadol\u00edm pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Hunza.<\/p>\n
Mirov\u00e9, vl\u00e1dci kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed, vybudovali p\u0159ed 750 lety nad hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem Karimab\u00e1dem star\u0161\u00ed pevnost Altit a mlad\u0161\u00ed Baltit, kter\u00e1 slou\u017eila z\u00e1rove\u0148 jako kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fd palac. Trochu p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b se v p\u0159ij\u00edmac\u00edm s\u00e1le nach\u00e1z\u00ed v podlaze mal\u00fd \u010dtvercov\u00fd poklop, pod n\u00edm\u017e byla z\u00e1sob\u00e1rna v\u00edna. V p\u0159edisl\u00e1msk\u00e9 dob\u011b se zde toti\u017e vyr\u00e1b\u011blo v\u00edno, ale dnes je u\u017e z\u00e1sob\u00e1rna d\u00e1vno a d\u00e1vno vypr\u00e1zdn\u011bn\u00e1.<\/p>\n
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\u00dadol\u00ed d\u00edky d\u016fmysln\u00fdm zavod\u0148ovac\u00edm kan\u00e1l\u016fm vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed zelenou o\u00e1zu, nad kterou se ty\u010d\u00ed sedmitisicov\u00e1 mohutn\u00e1 hora Rakapo\u0161i. Na ja\u0159e se \u00fadol\u00ed vybarvuje kv\u011bty ovocn\u00fdch strom\u016f a na podzim mnoha t\u00f3ny barev m\u011bn\u00edc\u00edch se list\u016f. Fotografova du\u0161e zde m\u016f\u017ee zaplesat.<\/p>\n
Ve\u010der na vyhl\u00eddce vysoko nad m\u011bstem a \u00fadol\u00edm mi i m\u00edstn\u00ed turist\u00e9 \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed, \u017ee tohle je jedno z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u00edst cel\u00e9ho P\u00e1kist\u00e1nu.<\/p>\n
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Postrann\u00edm \u00fadol\u00edm pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Hispar jsme se dostali pobl\u00ed\u017e ledovce Hoper. V t\u00e9to oblasti je snad nejv\u00edce ledovc\u016f po hromad\u011b v relativn\u011b n\u00edzk\u00e9 nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce. Spole\u010dn\u011b s glob\u00e1ln\u00edm oteplov\u00e1n\u00edm ale rychleji taj\u00ed a jednou z\u0159ejm\u011b zmiz\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b.<\/p>\n
Cel\u00e1 tato severoz\u00e1padn\u00ed oblast u hranic s \u010c\u00ednou je r\u00e1jem treka\u0159\u016f, ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm horolezc\u016f. Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se zde 5 osmitisicovek – krom\u011b Nanga Parbatu je\u0161t\u011b ob\u00e1van\u00e1 K2, Ga\u0161enbrun I a II a Broad Peak.<\/p>\n
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Ve star\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti Karimab\u00e1du se nach\u00e1z\u00ed star\u00e1 vesnice Gani\u0161 se zbytky opevn\u011bn\u00ed a obran\u00fdmi v\u011b\u017eemi. Le\u017eela na Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezce a byla m\u00edstem noclehu putuj\u00edc\u00edch karavan. Z vesnice a opevn\u011bn\u00ed z\u016fstala jen \u010d\u00e1st, proto\u017ee v minulosti \u0159adu dom\u016f strhl sesuv p\u016fdy a \u010d\u00e1st padla nekompromisn\u011b za ob\u011b\u0165 stavb\u011b silnice. I dnes se na tomto m\u00edst\u011b \u017eije podobn\u011b jako v dob\u011b putov\u00e1n\u00ed karavan. Doposud se zde mluv\u00ed odli\u0161n\u00fdm dislektem – beri\u0161ski. Najednou jsem byl o stovky let zp\u011bt. A nikde davy turist\u016f. Tohle je na P\u00e1kist\u00e1nu \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9. Tohle u\u017e p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1te za\u017e\u00edvat v sousedn\u00ed Indii.<\/p>\n
Kar\u00e1k\u00f3ram Highway stoup\u00e1 d\u00e1l na sever \u00fazk\u00fdm ka\u0148onem \u0159eky Khunjerab p\u0159es n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park a t\u00e1hl\u00fdmi serpentinami a\u017e do sedla k \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 hranici (4 733 m). Krajina se zde m\u011bn\u00ed a \u010dern\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly kontrastuj\u00ed s modrou oblohou a do \u017eluta se barv\u00edc\u00edmi listy strom\u016f. D\u00e1l u\u017e je jen komunistick\u00e1 \u010c\u00edna.<\/p>\n
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Cestou zp\u011bt jsem si chv\u00edli vyzkou\u0161el j\u00edzdu na st\u0159e\u0161e autobusu tak, jak to v t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti sv\u011bta b\u00fdval b\u011b\u017en\u00fd zp\u016fsob p\u0159epravy.<\/p>\n
V podve\u010der jsme je\u0161t\u011b sestoupili dol\u016f k \u0159ece Hunza, p\u0159es kterou vedou na n\u011bkolika m\u00edstech dlouh\u00e9 lanov\u00e9 vysut\u00e9 mosty. I kdy\u017e vypadaj\u00ed byteln\u011b a prkna zachovale, ch\u016fze nad prudkou \u0159ekou na k\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00edm se most\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1 tu\u0161it, jak\u00e9 to m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt za \u0161patn\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed nad dravou \u0159ekou po jarn\u00edm t\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n
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P\u0159enocovali jsme v m\u011bste\u010dku Gulmit. M\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 se li\u0161\u00ed od ostatn\u00edch sv\u011btlej\u0161\u00ed barvou pleti a ob\u010das i sv\u011btl\u00fdmi nebo zrzav\u00fdmi vlasy. \u017deny nenos\u00ed \u0161\u00e1tek, proto\u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed obyvatelstvo pat\u0159\u00ed k sekt\u011b ismailit\u016f, co\u017e je odno\u017e \u0161i\u00edtsk\u00e9 v\u011btve muslim\u016f. Barva pleti a vlas\u016f m\u00e1 \u00fadajn\u011b p\u016fvod od voj\u00e1k\u016f Alexandra Makedonsk\u00e9ho, kte\u0159\u00ed se tu z\u0159ejm\u011b zdr\u017eeli d\u00e9le, ne\u017e by p\u0159in\u00e1le\u017eelo b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 dob\u011b pochodu…<\/p>\n
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