{"id":613,"date":"2014-02-15T08:59:39","date_gmt":"2014-02-15T08:59:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=613"},"modified":"2014-02-18T10:41:06","modified_gmt":"2014-02-18T10:41:06","slug":"uttarprades-varanasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=613","title":{"rendered":"Uttarprad\u00e9\u0161 – V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

R\u00e1no jsme se projeli lo\u010fkou do vesnice, kterou jsme si potom je\u0161t\u011b pro\u0161li p\u011b\u0161ky jako tlupa nenasytn\u00fdch fotograf\u016f a po brzk\u00e9m ob\u011bd\u011b jsme se naposledy nalodili, pot\u00e9 p\u0159estoupili do mikrobusu a vr\u00e1tili se zp\u011bt do Kolkaty.
\nTa b\u00fdvala za britsk\u00e9 \u00e9ry hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem a koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed duch byl patrn\u00fd i p\u0159i pouh\u00e9m pr\u016fjezdu m\u011bstem. N\u011bkdy bude st\u00e1t zato se sem je\u0161t\u011b vr\u00e1tit…
\nOdj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli jsme no\u010dn\u00edm vlakem z ohromn\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, kter\u00e9 odbav\u00ed nejv\u00edc cestuj\u00edc\u00edch na sv\u011bt\u011b.
\nV noci se citeln\u011b ochladilo, za\u010dalo pr\u0161et a potom u\u017e jen lilo. Stejn\u011b tak tomu bylo, kdy\u017e jsme vystoupili dopoledne ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed. \u0160koda, na z\u00e1v\u011br cesty a do m\u011bsta, kter\u00e9 je jinak velmi barevn\u00e9. Nav\u00edc byla nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 zima…<\/p>\n

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Po pozdn\u00ed sn\u00eddani a brzk\u00e9m ob\u011bd\u011b jsme se \u0161li proj\u00edt po gh\u00e1tech a pono\u0159it se do atmosf\u00e9ry tohoto v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00e9ho m\u00edsta.<\/p>\n

Historie m\u011bsta je star\u00e1 4 tis\u00edce let. 4 tis\u00edce let zde prob\u00edhaj\u00ed na t\u011bch sam\u00fdch m\u00edstech, na b\u0159ez\u00edch nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u0159eky Gangy, ritu\u00e1ly o\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed a smrti. Ve\u0159ejn\u011b, neskr\u00fdvan\u011b, tak, jak to v \u017eivot\u011b v\u017edy bylo – \u017eivot a smrt vedle sebe. To jen na\u0161e civilizace te\u010f smrt schov\u00e1v\u00e1, a proto takov\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edm\u00e9 setk\u00e1n\u00ed s lidsk\u00fdm koncem donut\u00ed k zamy\u0161len\u00ed…pokud tedy nehled\u00e1te jen senza\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159edstaven\u00ed p\u00e1len\u00ed lidsk\u00fdch t\u011bl.
\nNen\u00ed to ale jen lidsk\u00fd popel, kter\u00fd se ob\u0159adn\u011b sype do \u0159eky, ale vhazuj\u00ed se tam cel\u00e1 mrtv\u00e1 t\u011bla svat\u00fdch mu\u017e\u016f, t\u011bhotn\u00fdch \u017een, malomocn\u00fdch, u\u0161tknut\u00fdch kobrou a d\u011bt\u00ed, kter\u00e1 se nikdy nep\u00e1l\u00ed.
\nHinduist\u00e9 v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee ob\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fdm sp\u00e1len\u00edm t\u011bla a nasyp\u00e1n\u00edm popela do Gangy skon\u010d\u00ed kolob\u011bh zrozen\u00ed a smrti a tento konec bude definitivn\u00ed. P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed sem tis\u00edce a mili\u00f3ny poutn\u00edk\u016f, aby vykonali ob\u0159ad o\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed koupel\u00ed ve svat\u00e9 \u0159ece a smyli ze sebe v\u0161echny svoje h\u0159\u00edchy.
\n\"image\"<\/a>Barevn\u00e9 hem\u017een\u00ed, v\u016fn\u011b, nasl\u00e1dl\u00e9 pachy lidsk\u00fdch t\u011bl na ho\u0159\u00edc\u00edch hranic\u00edch, prodava\u010di, holi\u010di, mas\u00e9\u0159i, \u017eebr\u00e1ci, mrz\u00e1ci, mlad\u00ed hr\u00e1\u010di kriketu a svat\u00ed mu\u017eov\u00e9 tvo\u0159\u00ed ohromn\u00fd kotel, kter\u00fd na v\u00e1s zap\u016fsob\u00ed v\u00edc ne\u017e jin\u00e1 m\u011bsta. Nav\u00edc si \u010dlov\u011bk v\u00edce ne\u017e jinde uv\u011bdom\u00ed pom\u00edjivost a kone\u010dnost \u017eivota. Ob\u010dasn\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161\u0165, mokro a bahno v uli\u010dk\u00e1ch dod\u00e1valo m\u00edstu je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00ed, ponur\u00fd rozm\u011br, kter\u00fd tvo\u0159il kontrast k jeho barevnosti a podtrhoval t\u00edsniv\u00fd pocit u hranic smrti.
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\nK hlavn\u00edmu spalovac\u00edmu gh\u00e1tu Manikarnika jsme p\u0159i\u0161li za tmy a byl to pohled jako do Sauronovy d\u00edlny…
\nMrtv\u00e1 t\u011bla spaluj\u00ed d\u00f3mov\u00e9 – kasta ne\u010dist\u00fdch, kte\u0159\u00ed dok\u00e1\u017e\u00ed p\u0159esn\u011b odhadnout, kolik bude pot\u0159eba d\u0159eva ke sp\u00e1len\u00ed t\u011bla. To se v\u00e1\u017e\u00ed a kupuje p\u0159\u00edmo u gh\u00e1tu. Nejdra\u017e\u0161\u00ed je santalov\u00e9 d\u0159evo.<\/p>\n

Ka\u017ed\u00fd ve\u010der na hlavn\u00edm gh\u00e1tu prob\u00edh\u00e1 ob\u0159ad ganga \u00e1rti. Sv\u011btla, ohn\u011b, plameny sv\u00edcn\u016f a zp\u011bv d\u00e1vaj\u00ed m\u00edstu dal\u0161\u00ed rozm\u011br.
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Ani jsme si nevychutnali p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 ve\u010de\u0159i. \u010cerven\u00e9 ku\u0159e pe\u010den\u00e9 v tandoori n\u00e1m a\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 p\u0159ipom\u00ednalo n\u011bkter\u00e9 v\u00fdjevy uplynul\u00e9ho dne. Zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 G\u00e1ba, kter\u00fd m\u00e1 z\u0159ejm\u011b nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed p\u0159edstavivost, si na jeho obl\u00edben\u00e9m ku\u0159\u00e1tku nepochutnal…
\nJe\u0161t\u011b jsme zalitovali, \u017ee nem\u016f\u017eeme v noci posed\u011bt na terase na\u0161eho hotelu p\u0159\u00edmo nad gh\u00e1ty a vychutnat si p\u00e1r joint\u016f, kter\u00e9 daj\u00ed za tepl\u00fdch ve\u010der\u016f m\u00edstu je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00ed rozm\u011br. Studen\u00fd v\u00edtr n\u00e1s toti\u017e brzy zahnal do pokoj\u016f…<\/p>\n

Brzy r\u00e1no jsme cht\u011bli pronajmout lo\u010fku a u\u017e\u00edt si jin\u00fd pohled na gh\u00e1ty v ml\u017en\u00e9m oparu vych\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edho slunce. Mlha byla tak hust\u00e1, \u017ee nebylo vid\u011bt na druh\u00fd b\u0159eh. Plavbu jsme odlo\u017eili na pozd\u011bji a jsem \u0161el ud\u011blat p\u00e1r z\u00e1b\u011br\u016f a fotografi\u00ed na zaml\u017een\u00e9 gh\u00e1ty a do \u00fazk\u00fdch zabl\u00e1cen\u00fdch uli\u010dek.<\/p>\n

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Den utekl rychle, pozd\u011b odpoledne za\u010dalo op\u011bt pr\u0161et a my jsme cykloryk\u0161ou odjeli na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed, abychom se p\u0159es noc vr\u00e1tili zp\u011bt do D\u00edl\u00ed, ud\u011blali posledn\u00ed n\u00e1kupy, dali si je\u0161t\u011b dobr\u00e9 indick\u00e9 j\u00eddlo a odjeli na leti\u0161t\u011b a zp\u011bt dom\u016f…<\/p>\n