{"id":2345,"date":"2018-08-30T13:02:30","date_gmt":"2018-08-30T13:02:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2345"},"modified":"2018-09-02T17:10:07","modified_gmt":"2018-09-02T17:10:07","slug":"z-deniku-marenky-po-deseti-letech-bazaruto-n-p","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2345","title":{"rendered":"Z den\u00edku Ma\u0159enky (po deseti letech) &#8211; Bazaruto n.p."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Jestli jsem si myslela, \u017ee cesta do parku Bahnine byla \u00famorn\u00e1, tak cesta na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed byla je\u0161t\u011b daleko p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u011bj\u0161\u00ed-trvala toti\u017e t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 deset hodin.Nikde nic, tu a tam mali\u010dk\u00e1 vesni\u010dka. Cesta, kterou navigace ukazovala jako hlavn\u00ed, vypadala jako u n\u00e1s poln\u00ed cesti\u010dka pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed, nemluv\u011b o d\u00edr\u00e1ch a \u00famorn\u00e9m vedru. V\u0161ichni u\u017e jsme byli tak otr\u00e1ven\u00ed (a co h\u016f\u0159 naklepan\u00ed jak \u0159\u00edzky), \u017ee u\u017e nikdo z n\u00e1s t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nic ne\u0159\u00edkal. P\u00e1r kilometr\u016f p\u0159ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00edm se navigace rozhodla st\u00e1vkovat-tat\u00ed\u010dkova slova nelze publikovat do ve\u0159ejn\u00e9 sf\u00e9ry (skoro jsem m\u011bla strach, \u017ee mu praskne \u017eilka v oku). Za tmy jsme dorazili do kempu Baobab beach ve m\u011bste\u010dku Vilankulo a na m\u011b pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b zap\u016fsobil mo\u0159sk\u00fd vzduch, \u0161um\u011bn\u00ed mo\u0159e a z\u00e1van civilizace jako afrodiziaukum neb jsem pln\u00e1 el\u00e1nu vyb\u011bhla z auta a prozkoum\u00e1vala pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed a z\u00e1kout\u00ed kempu. Za to Ka\u010dence byl p\u0159\u00edjezd na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b jedno, proto\u017ee le\u017eela v aut\u011b s hore\u010dkou 38,9 a dokonce odm\u00edtla j\u00edt na ve\u010de\u0159i ( to j\u00ed muselo b\u00fdt hodn\u011b zle..). Bylo dost hodin a n\u00e1m se po t\u00e9 n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 cest\u011b necht\u011blo j\u00edt mimo kemp, zvolili jsme tedy ve\u010de\u0159i v kempu. Daleko v\u00edc bych si ty plody mo\u0159e vychutnala , kdybych na j\u00eddlo ne\u010dekala p\u0159es hodinu. \ud83d\ude42 Ka\u010denka mezit\u00edm propotila cel\u00fd spac\u00e1k a ud\u011blalo se j\u00ed l\u00edp, co\u017e se projevilo otravov\u00e1n\u00edm milovan\u00e9 a k smrti unaven\u00e9 sestry.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Asi ve t\u0159i r\u00e1no n\u00e1s probudil p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u00fd \u0159ev ( vzbudil i m\u011b a to je co \u0159\u00edct, m\u011b toti\u017e nevzbud\u00ed ani alarm v dom\u011b ). M\u011bly jsme s Ka\u010d\u00ed strach, \u017ee n\u011bkdo p\u0159epadl kemp. Ostraha kempu okam\u017eit\u011b nab\u011bhla k m\u00edstu \u010dinu, kter\u00e9 bylo hned pod n\u00e1mi v pidi stanu dvou adolescentn\u00edch p\u0159iopil\u00fdch Angl\u00e1n\u016f, \u010di co to bylo za n\u00e1rodnost a sna\u017eili se zanalyzovat situaci. Ti dva uje\u010denci \u0159vali jako pominut\u00ed: &#8222;Cat! Cat!&#8220; a p\u0159i t\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti si \u00fapln\u011b rozervali stan. Ostraha s nezaujet\u00edm odkr\u00e1\u010dela zp\u011bt a j\u00e1, proto\u017ee jsem byla t\u00edmto incidentem dokonale probran\u00e1, jsem pobaven\u011b pozorovala ty dva trotly, jak lep\u00ed na c\u00e1ry roz\u0161kuban\u00fd stan. Kdy\u017e jsem se jich dal\u0161\u00edho dne ptala, co se jim stalo, zmaten\u011b mi vypr\u00e1v\u011bli n\u011bco o drog\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 jim n\u011bkdo dal do j\u00eddla a zap\u0159\u00edsahali m\u011b, abych nikdy nejedla mimo kemp. \u00dadajn\u011b si z incident\u016f nic nepamatovali. No my se p\u0159ikl\u00e1n\u00edme k tomu, \u017ee v r\u00e1mci alkoholov\u00fdch radov\u00e1nek vylekali sami sebe a ze sam\u00e9ho leknut\u00ed roztrhli stan. Kdy\u017e kone\u010dn\u011b dolepili stan, tak n\u011bjak\u00fd blb nastartoval motorku nebo traktor a asi patn\u00e1ct minut j\u00ed nebo ho nech\u00e1 b\u011b\u017eet.<br \/>\nP\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edho dne jsme z d\u016fvodu ru\u0161n\u00e9 noci zvolili klidn\u00e9 a pomal\u00e9 tempo a &#8222;fl\u00e1k\u00e1n\u00ed u mo\u0159e&#8220;, co\u017e zahrnovalo moji obl\u00edbenou aktivitu-sb\u00edr\u00e1n\u00ed mu\u0161l\u00ed, povalov\u00e1n\u00ed se a v neposledn\u00ed \u0159ad\u011b koup\u00e1n\u00ed. K ve\u010deru jsme se vydali na pr\u016fzkum po m\u011bst\u011b a poprv\u00e9 po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b p\u0159i\u010dichnout k no\u010dn\u00edmu \u017eivotu ve v\u011bt\u0161\u00edch m\u011bstech. D\u011bti prod\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed zeleninu a ovoce, \u017eeny s m\u00edstn\u00edmi l\u00e1tkami, v\u0161ude salonky na napl\u00e9t\u00e1n\u00ed vlas\u016f, k\u0159ik, smrad a s prominut\u00edm bordel, troub\u00edc\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di a nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 man\u00e9vry m\u00edstn\u00edch p\u0159i snaze vyhnout se s protijedouc\u00edm vozidle na neju\u017e\u0161\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b tr\u017ei\u0161t\u011b, to v\u0161e nab\u00edzel m\u00edstn\u00ed trh. Nepochopili jsme, \u017ee ceny za ovoce a zeleninu jsou dan\u00e9 a sna\u017eili jsme se smlouvat. \u017dena hovo\u0159\u00edc\u00ed portugalsky se roz\u010dilovala nad t\u00edm, \u017ee jsme \u00fapln\u00ed blbci, proto\u017ee dvacet a dvacet je \u010dty\u0159icet a nikoliv n\u00e1mi nab\u00edzen\u00fdch 30. Byli jsme tro\u0161ku za trubky, ale jsme pou\u010den\u00ed a smlouv\u00e1me d\u00e1l p\u0159i n\u00e1kupu suven\u00fdr\u016f. Ve\u010de\u0159i jsme si dali U Zity, co\u017e byla pidi restaurace hned u kempu. Podnik provozuj\u00ed obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 mil\u00ed man\u017eel\u00e9 Zita a jej\u00ed man\u017eel (bohu\u017eel si nikdo z n\u00e1s nezapamatoval jeho jm\u00e9no), kte\u0159\u00ed hovo\u0159ili dob\u0159e anglicky a byli opravdu mil\u00ed, Zita va\u0159\u00ed v\u0161e z \u010derstv\u00fdch surovin a s l\u00e1skou, n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t za n\u00e1mi p\u0159i\u0161la zdali je v\u0161e v po\u0159\u00e1dku. Ochutnali jsme m\u00edstn\u00ed specialitu- Matapu, co\u017e je n\u011bco jako n\u00e1\u0161 \u0161pen\u00e1t s p\u0159\u00edm\u011bs\u00ed rozmixovan\u00fdch ke\u0161u a kokosov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka, j\u00ed se bu\u010f samotn\u00e1 s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed nebo s mo\u0159sk\u00fdmi plody. My jsme zvolili variantu s krabem a krevetami a mus\u00edm uznat, \u017ee tak dob\u0159e ochucen\u00e9 j\u00eddlo jsem dlouho v restauraci nem\u011bla. Ka\u010d\u00ed zvolila zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed \u00fapravu ku\u0159ete, kter\u00e9 chutnalo jako vyuzen\u00e9 s p\u0159\u00edchut\u00ed kou\u0159e. Jedin\u00e1 nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 v\u011bc byla, \u017ee n\u00e1s ze\u0161t\u00edpali p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u011b kom\u00e1\u0159i a my m\u00edsto p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9ho posezen\u00ed uprchli do stan\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Rozhodli jsme zaplatit si celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet na ostrov Bazaruto, co\u017e je n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park a jinak ne\u017e lod\u00ed se na n\u011bj ned\u00e1 dostat. Nejprve jsem se na to moc netv\u00e1\u0159ila, ale jsem byla neskute\u010dn\u011b r\u00e1da, \u017ee jsem jela, proto\u017ee to byl skute\u010dn\u011b z\u00e1\u017eitek. Nejprve jsme dojeli na Bazaruto, kde jsme se porozhl\u00eddli a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b sesb\u00edrali dal\u0161\u00ed mu\u0161le.Prohl\u00e9dli jsme si i p\u00edse\u010dn\u00e9 duny, kter\u00e9 jsou zvl\u00e1\u0161tnost\u00ed cel\u00e9ho n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku. Po p\u0159\u00edjezdu dal\u0161\u00edch lod\u00ed jsme si vyp\u016fj\u010dili pom\u016fcky na \u0161norchlov\u00e1n\u00ed a vyrazili ke kor\u00e1lov\u00e9mu \u00fatesu. Najednou n\u00e1\u0161 kapit\u00e1n zak\u0159i\u010del:: &#8222;Shark!&#8220; Mali\u010dko m\u011b to vylekalo, ale po vykouknut\u00ed velryb\u00edho h\u0159betu jsem pochopila, \u017ee pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b jen nezn\u00e1 anglick\u00fd p\u0159eklad slova velryba. Velmi bl\u00edzko n\u00e1s vyskakovaly a m\u00e1valy ploutvemi t\u0159i velryby, pr\u00fd rodinka. Velmi se p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bly, vypou\u0161t\u011bly vodu, bru\u010dely a n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t za sebou vyskakovaly opravdu bl\u00edzko. Nejv\u00edce to pro\u017e\u00edvala mati\u010dka, kter\u00e1 excitovan\u011b vyk\u0159ikovala: &#8222;Hele, koukejte! a tam! Honem, \u0161up, hele a tady je dal\u0161\u00ed!!!&#8220; Po nad\u0161en\u00e9m pozorov\u00e1n\u00ed jsme zam\u00ed\u0159ili bl\u00ed\u017ee k \u00fatesu a za\u010dali jsme \u0161norchlovat. Nejprve mi teklo do br\u00fdl\u00ed a n\u00e1sledn\u011b do \u0161norchlu, vydala jsem se nazp\u011bt k lodi a cestou jsem p\u016flku \u0161norchlu, kter\u00e1 tam z\u0159ejm\u011b ani nepat\u0159ila, ztratila. Kapit\u00e1n byl ze m\u011b nad\u0161en- pot\u00ed\u017eistka. \u0160norchlov\u00e1n\u00ed bylo skv\u011bl\u00e9, v\u0161ude bylo plno barevn\u00fdch rybi\u010dek a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch kor\u00e1l\u016f. Na\u0161i spolucestuj\u00edc\u00ed ze \u0160pan\u011blska vylezli z vody po prvn\u00edch deseti minut\u00e1ch \u00fapln\u011b vymrzl\u00ed, oce\u00e1n m\u00e1 asi 22 stup\u016f- pro p\u0159edstavu. Po \u010dty\u0159iceti minut\u00e1ch jsme se vydali nazp\u011bt k ostrovu, kde pro n\u00e1s va\u0159ili ob\u011bd. P\u0159ejedli jsme se mo\u0159sk\u00fdmi plody a s pln\u00fdmi b\u0159ichy odpo\u010d\u00edvali na pl\u00e1\u017ei. Tat\u00ed\u010dek se dal do \u0159e\u010di s Italy sed\u00edc\u00ed kousek od n\u00e1s. P\u00e1n byl nad\u0161en, \u017ee jsme z \u010cR, proto\u017ee je s\u00e1m na p\u016fl \u010cechem, jeho maminka je \u010ce\u0161ka a tat\u00ednek Ital (a babi\u010dka \u017eije na Invalidovn\u011b). On v\u0161ak um\u011bl \u010desky jen p\u00e1r slov\u00ed\u010dek. Po odpo\u010dinku jsme se nalodili a jeli k dal\u0161\u00edmu men\u0161\u00edmu ostrovu, kde n\u00e1s p\u0159ekvapilo obrovsk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed krab\u016f na pl\u00e1\u017ei. Nikdy jsem tolik krab\u016f nevid\u011bla.<br \/>\nPak u\u017e nezb\u00fdvalo ne\u017e se vr\u00e1tit dom\u016f. Nave\u010de\u0159et jsme se rozhodli u jednoho m\u00edstn\u00edho \u0161mel\u00ed\u0159e, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m u\u017e p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne nab\u00edzel tal\u00ed\u0159e kalam\u00e1r\u016f, krab\u016f, ryb, pra\u017een\u00fdch ryb, krevet a kokosov\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee za slu\u0161nou cenu. V p\u016fl osm\u00e9 si n\u00e1s vyzvedl u br\u00e1ny kempu o odvedl do baru, kde n\u00e1s nechal bez jedin\u00e9ho slova sed\u011bt a skoro hodinu \u010dekat. Nakonec donesl tal\u00ed\u0159e pln\u00e9 j\u00eddla. Bylo toho hodn\u011b, ale mn\u011b osobn\u011b vadilo, jak neust\u00e1le zmaten\u011b pob\u00edhal a p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161el tal\u00ed\u0159e mezi dal\u0161\u00edch asi deset lid\u00ed. Nav\u00edc konverzace s n\u00edm byla pom\u011brn\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1, proto\u017ee jeho tok my\u0161lenek byl rychlej\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e jeho angli\u010dtina zvl\u00e1dala vyj\u00e1d\u0159it, tak\u017ee jsme se st\u011b\u017e\u00ed dov\u00eddali, co n\u00e1m vlastn\u011b chce b\u00e1sn\u00edk \u0159\u00edci. \u0158ekl n\u00e1m, \u017ee ve sv\u00fdch sedmadvaceti letech nen\u00ed \u017eenat proto, \u017ee \u017eeny v Mosambiku jsou p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 komplikovan\u00e9, na\u010de\u017e tat\u00ednek pohotov\u011b odpov\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee \u017eeny jsou komplikovan\u00e9 v\u0161ude. Pak ho zaj\u00edmalo kolik m\u00e1 t\u00e1ta \u017een a kolik d\u011bt\u00ed a jak jsou star\u00e9. \u0158ekli jsme mu a\u0165 n\u00e1\u0161 v\u011bk h\u00e1d\u00e1. U m\u011b se docela trefil, \u0159ekl, \u017ee je mi mezi dvaceti a t\u0159iadvaceti. U Ka\u010denky si nebyl moc jist\u00fd a odhadl mezi osmn\u00e1cti a t\u0159iadvaceti. Naprosto nemohl pochopit, \u017ee je j\u00ed patn\u00e1ct a pobaven\u011b to \u0159\u00edkal sv\u00e9mu kolegovi, kter\u00fd se n\u00e1s pro jistotu je\u0161t\u011b jednou zeptal jestli jsme si jist\u00ed, \u017ee je j\u00ed skute\u010dn\u011b patn\u00e1ct. N\u011bjak to po\u0159\u00e1d nemohli pochopit.To u\u017e, ale bylo stra\u0161n\u011b hodin a my se za doprovodu na\u0161eho hostitele p\u0159esunuli do kempu. Byli jsme z cel\u00e9ho kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho dne pon\u011bkud unaven\u00ed.<br \/>\nDobrou M.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-2355 size-medium alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0022-977349390-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0022-977349390-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0022-977349390-768x432.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0022-977349390-1024x576.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0022-977349390.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-2354 size-medium alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0025-1941187767-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0025-1941187767-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0025-1941187767-768x432.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0025-1941187767-1024x576.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_0025-1941187767.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2353 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_00231364921466-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_00231364921466-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_00231364921466-768x432.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/dsc_00231364921466.jpg 999w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<div id=\"wp_fb_like_button\" style=\"margin:5px 0 5px 5px;float:right;height:8px;\"><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2345\" send=\"true\" layout=\"standard\" width=\"450\" show_faces=\"true\" font=\"verdana\" action=\"like\" colorscheme=\"light\"><\/fb:like><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jestli jsem si myslela, \u017ee cesta do parku Bahnine byla \u00famorn\u00e1, tak cesta na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed byla je\u0161t\u011b daleko p\u0159\u00ed\u0161ern\u011bj\u0161\u00ed-trvala toti\u017e t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 deset hodin.Nikde nic, tu a tam mali\u010dk\u00e1 vesni\u010dka. Cesta, kterou navigace ukazovala jako hlavn\u00ed, vypadala jako u n\u00e1s poln\u00ed cesti\u010dka pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed, nemluv\u011b o d\u00edr\u00e1ch a \u00famorn\u00e9m vedru. V\u0161ichni u\u017e jsme byli tak otr\u00e1ven\u00ed &hellip; <a class=\"read-excerpt\" href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2345\">Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed&#8230; <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2345","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-afrika-2018-jar-mosambik"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2345","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2345"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2345\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2383,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2345\/revisions\/2383"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2345"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2345"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2345"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}