{"id":2316,"date":"2018-08-24T22:02:37","date_gmt":"2018-08-24T22:02:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2316"},"modified":"2018-09-02T17:07:03","modified_gmt":"2018-09-02T17:07:03","slug":"z-deniku-marenky-po-deseti-letech-limpopo-n-p","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2316","title":{"rendered":"Z den\u00edku Ma\u0159enky II. (po deseti letech) &#8211; Limpopo n.p."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ani n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho dne se n\u00e1m nepovedlo vyrazit o moc d\u0159\u00edve. A pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b jsme si vypl\u00e1cali \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed na zv\u00ed\u0159ata hned prvn\u00ed den, proto\u017ee krom\u011b antilop, slon\u016f, p\u0161tros\u016f a exotick\u00fdch pt\u00e1\u010dk\u016f, jsme nevid\u011bli \u017e\u00e1dnou \u0161elmu ani vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 zv\u00ed\u0159e. Nav\u00edc bylo extr\u00e9mn\u00ed horko. Kemp Letaba byl o dost m\u00e9n\u011b romantick\u00fd ne\u017e Babule, o dost v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a hlu\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Na\u0161i si cht\u011bli spravit chu\u0165 no\u010dn\u00edm game drivem, kter\u00fd jsem ihned zavrhla, proto\u017ee mi bylo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee pokud nic neuvid\u00edme, budu zpruzen\u00e1. Sotva se zbytek rodiny p\u0159esunul k recepci zvedl se v\u00edtr a kemp se na chv\u00edli zm\u011bnil v pra\u0161nou pou\u0161\u0165. Lid\u00e9 zb\u011bsile l\u00edtali a zachra\u0148ovali popadan\u00e9 oble\u010den\u00ed a stany. J\u00e1 m\u00edsto chv\u00edle klidu na z\u00e1pisy do den\u00edku, jsem tr\u00e1vila dv\u011b hodiny zav\u0159en\u00e1 v aut\u011b schov\u00e1vaj\u00edc se p\u0159ed v\u011btrem a t\u00edm ohavn\u00fdm prachem. Zbytek rodiny se obaloval prachem na game drivu a krom\u011b sm\u011b\u0161n\u00e9ho zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tka vypadaj\u00edc jako veverka s ob\u0159\u00edm ocasem a rozm\u011brem jako pras\u00e1tko bradavi\u010dnat\u00e9 (springhoo), tup\u00e9 hyeny nesouc\u00ed ob\u0159\u00ed plech, \u0161akala, st\u00e1d vodu\u0161ek a impal nevid\u011bli nic.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Vedro p\u0159edchoz\u00edho dne pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b zp\u016fsobilo vlezlou zimu dne nadch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edho. Probudili jsme se do 14 stup\u0148\u016f, zata\u017eena a m\u00edrn\u011b de\u0161tiva. Zima neotr\u00e1vila nejsp\u00ed\u0161 jen n\u00e1s, ale i zv\u00ed\u0159ata, proto\u017ee ani tohoto dne jsme nezahl\u00e9dli v\u00edc ne\u017e t\u0159i p\u0161trosice a p\u00e1r antilop, jak v Krugeru, tak v v parku Limpopo ji\u017e v Mosambiku. Na hranic\u00edch s Mosambikem jsme kupodivu ne\u010dekali moc dlouho jako to b\u00fdv\u00e1 zvykem a je\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed bylo, \u017ee \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edci hovo\u0159ili anglicky, \u00fa\u0159edn\u00ed jazyk je zde toti\u017e portugal\u0161tina. \u010cernou\u0161ci byli zimou evidentn\u011b nadm\u00edru zasko\u010deni, proto\u017ee drkotali zuby a byli nabalen\u00ed v n\u011bkolika vrstv\u00e1ch a dokonce si topili klimatizac\u00ed. A proto\u017ee, co by to bylo za dovolenou bez z\u00e1drhelu, m\u011bnili jsme po t\u0159ech kilometrech j\u00edzdy mosambick\u00fdm parkem \u00fapln\u011b odd\u011blanou pneumatiku.Nabalili jsme se do v\u0161eho mo\u017en\u00e9ho oble\u010den\u00ed a v mrholen\u00ed sledovali, jak se n\u00e1\u0161 \u0161ikovn\u00fd tat\u00ednek s pomoc\u00ed schopn\u00e9ho \u010dernou\u0161ka od z\u00e1vory mo\u0159\u00ed s v\u00fdm\u011bnou gumy. Guma byla \u00fapln\u011b zni\u010den\u00e1 a to si v\u016fbec nejsme v\u011bdomi, kdy jsme ji prorazili. Zv\u00ed\u0159ata u\u017e jsme b\u011bhem tohoto dne nezahl\u00e9dli, jeli jsme tedy hledat kemp. Ten jsme na\u0161li a vyhl\u00eddli si p\u011bkn\u00e9 m\u00edsto nad jezerem. Foukal v\u00edtr a byla neskute\u010dn\u00e1 zima, mrholilo a vypadalo to, jako u n\u00e1s za chladn\u00fdch podzimn\u00edch podve\u010der\u016f. Nakonec jsme se je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159em\u00edstili do v\u00edce zakryt\u00e9ho m\u00edsta a zalehli v neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fdch dev\u011bt hodin ve\u010dern\u00edch.<br \/>\nN\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho dne jsme vstali brzy a nala\u010dno la\u010dn\u011b vyrazili za \u0161elmami, kter\u00e9 jsme op\u011bt nevid\u011bli. Za to jsme narazili na vesnici uprost\u0159ed parku, kde n\u00e1s odm\u00edtli pustit skrz, proto\u017ee maj\u00ed u\u017e m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed konflikt s parkem, co\u017e je sice bezva, ale n\u00e1m to nikdo ne\u0159ekl. Do\u0161lo na dlouh\u00e9 dohadov\u00e1n\u00ed s jedn\u00edm z anglicky mluv\u00edc\u00edch domorodc\u016f. Pochopila jsem, jak se asi c\u00edt\u00ed zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tka v ZOO, kdy\u017e je v\u0161ichni o\u010dumuj\u00ed. D\u011bti se toti\u017e nalepily na auta, ksichtily se na n\u00e1s a n\u011bkter\u00e9 l\u00e1skypln\u011b olizovaly skla auta. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b v\u00fdsledek zdali n\u00e1s pust\u00ed \u010di ne, byl negativn\u00ed, tak jsme alespo\u0148 vyt\u00e1hli fo\u0165\u00e1ky a nastala ta prav\u00e1 legrace. D\u011bti toti\u017e pozovaly, sm\u00e1ly se do fo\u0165\u00e1k\u016f a m\u011bly z n\u00e1s obrovskou srandu. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed adolescenti zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 zv\u011bdav\u011b okukovali na\u0161i Ka\u010denku, z\u0159ejm\u011b zkoumali jestli m\u00e1 dostate\u010dn\u011b velk\u00fd zadek. Str\u00e1vili jsme tam p\u011bknou chv\u00edli, oni n\u00e1s m\u011bli jako atrakci a my mohli nakouknout do \u017eivota m\u00edstn\u00edch. U\u017e u\u017e jsme se lou\u010dili a nastupovali do auta, kdy\u017e sly\u0161\u00edm k\u0159i\u010d\u00edc\u00ed m\u00e1ti: &#8222;On mi ukradl mobil!!&#8220; Spole\u010dn\u011b s Ka\u010d\u00ed se za n\u00edm rozeb\u011bhla.&nbsp; J\u00e1 jsem bez zaujet\u00ed sed\u011bla v aut\u011b. Co se d\u011blo posl\u00e9ze v\u00edm pouze z p\u0159evypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed, proto\u017ee m\u011b cel\u00e1 kr\u00e1de\u017e nechala chladnou a doufala jsem, \u017ee je to hloup\u00fd \u017eert. Hloup\u00fd \u017eert to nebyl, proto\u017ee se tak za p\u016fl hodiny vr\u00e1tila schl\u00edpl\u00e1 matinka bez n\u00e1lady a bez mobilu. Rozjelo se p\u00e1tr\u00e1n\u00ed a vlo\u017eil se do toho tat\u00edk. Ten pr\u00fd pro\u0161el celou vesnici a v doprovodu m\u00edstn\u00edho mlad\u00edka se sna\u017eil naj\u00edt n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka. Tat\u00ednek se dostal po poh\u0159bu k rad\u011b cel\u00e9 vesnice, kde nejprve pron\u00e1\u0161eli z\u0159ejm\u011b vzpom\u00ednkov\u00e9 proslovy za zesnul\u00e9ho. Zde si dovol\u00edm odbo\u010dku od dramatick\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu s mobilem. By\u0165 jsem \u017eila v domn\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee Mosambik je p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b muslimsk\u00e1 zem\u011b, tak zde \u017eij\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165an\u00e9, proto\u017ee poh\u0159b\u00edvali zesnul\u00e9ho do zem\u011b, pok\u0159i\u017eovali se a \u0159ekli amen. Zp\u00e1tky k ukraden\u00e9mu mobilu. Potom dostal prostor, aby p\u0159ednesl svoji \u017e\u00e1dost. Z reakc\u00ed pochopil, \u017ee jednomu ze star\u0161\u00edch to p\u0159i\u0161lo jako n\u00e1\u0161 probl\u00e9m, \u017ee jsme p\u0159i\u0161li o mobil. Dal\u0161\u00ed ale nesouhlasil a z\u0159ejm\u011b necht\u011bl, aby byli pova\u017eov\u00e1ni za bandu zlod\u011bj\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed hned okradou turistu. Po v\u00e1\u0161niv\u00e9 debat\u011b ho odvedl na m\u00edsto \u010dinu m\u00edstn\u00ed str\u00e1\u017ece z\u00e1kona, kter\u00fd svolal d\u011bti p\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 incidentu, kter\u00e9 se mezit\u00edm stihly zh\u00e1dat z\u0159ejm\u011b kv\u016fli nepr\u00e1v\u00ed na n\u00e1s sp\u00e1chan\u00e9m. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed chlapce, kter\u00fd vyt\u00e1hl mati\u010dce z kapsy kalhot mobil a zdrhl, poznaly na jedn\u00e9 z fotografi\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jim tat\u00edk ukazoval. Str\u00e1\u017ece \u0159ekl, \u017ee to pro\u0161et\u0159\u00ed a m\u00e1me p\u0159ijet tak za dv\u011b hodiny. Tak jsme pod\u011bkovali a odjeli se zdekompenzovanou muminou pozorovat zv\u00ed\u0159ata-marn\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Asi po dvou a p\u016fl hodin\u00e1ch jsme m\u00ed\u0159ili k vesnici. Cestou jsme procenty odhadovali \u00fasp\u011b\u0161nost p\u00e1tr\u00e1n\u00ed, byla jsem skeptick\u00e1 a h\u00e1dala 40 %, Ka\u010d\u00ed asi 60 %. P\u0159ed vesnic\u00ed jsme potkali policistu a \u010dernou\u0161ka v z\u00e1chran\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch kalhotech na pidi motorce. Mobil nenesli, ale odvedli n\u00e1s do vesnice. Na\u0161i \u0161li s nimi a my sed\u011bly v aut\u011b. Za p\u016fl hodiny se vr\u00e1tila od ucha k uchu sm\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed se mati\u010dka a n\u00e1m bylo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee m\u00e1 mobil v kapse, a taky \u017ee jo. L\u00ed\u010dili n\u00e1m, jak si je ob\u0159adn\u011b posadili v ch\u00fd\u0161i n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka, n\u011bco zdlouhav\u011b promlouvali a n\u00e1sledn\u011b p\u0159inesli mobil a nechali mums v\u0161echno p\u0159ekontrolovat. Moc \u0161anc\u00ed jsme znovu nalezen\u00ed mobilu ned\u00e1vali, ale evidentn\u011b necht\u011bli b\u00fdt za zlod\u011bje. Byli jsme plni z\u00e1\u017eitk\u016f a vydali se hledat kemp. Ten jsme sice na\u0161li, ale nebyli tam kempovac\u00ed m\u00edsta, za to v\u0161ak velmi ochotn\u00fd a mil\u00fd person\u00e1l, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m ve\u010der nachystal ohe\u0148, nechal n\u00e1s um\u00fdt se v lod\u017e\u00edch a ochotn\u011b zodpov\u00eddal ot\u00e1zky. Ve\u010der jsme m\u011bli mo\u017enost si pohovo\u0159it s milou \u010derno\u0161kou, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1m vypr\u00e1v\u011bla o tom, jak se do kempu dostala, kolik m\u00e1 d\u011bt\u00ed, jak zem\u0159el jej\u00ed man\u017eel a pro\u010d nemus\u00ed Jihoafri\u010dany. D\u011bt\u00ed m\u00e1 \u0161est, z toho jen jednoho hocha- nyn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho rangera. Man\u017eel zem\u0159el ne\u0161\u0165astnou n\u00e1hodou p\u0159i autonehod\u011b a Jihoafri\u010dany nemus\u00ed, proto\u017ee se vra\u017ed\u00ed a nesn\u00e1\u0161ej\u00ed se mezi sebou. Ptali jsme se tak\u00e9 na zv\u00ed\u0159ata v parku a jejich koexistenci s lidmi. Jen m\u00e1vla rukou a pravila, \u017ee lid\u00e9 zvl\u00e1dli v jednu dobu t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 vyhladit lv\u00ed rodiny, proto\u017ee je zab\u00edjeli kv\u016fli dr\u00e1p\u016fm a zub\u016fm. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed se v\u0161e za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 vracet do norm\u00e1lu a dokonce je u\u017e v Limpopo p\u011bt lv\u00edch rodin a \u00fadajn\u011b a\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 slon\u016f, no my nevid\u011bli ani jednoho. B\u011bhem hovoru n\u00e1m za\u010dalo houkat auto a jeden z ochr\u00e1nc\u016f parku vyb\u011bhl s pu\u0161kou, co\u017e n\u00e1s zna\u010dn\u011b zneklidnilo, nicm\u00e9n\u011b \u0161lo jen o m\u016fru na alarmu auta. Pr\u00fd v noci sku\u010dela hyena, j\u00e1 o tom nem\u00e1m ani potuchy.<\/p>\n<p>Pac a pusu M.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-2335 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603-169x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"169\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603-169x300.jpg 169w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603-768x1365.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603-576x1024.jpg 576w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_085603.jpg 1836w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 169px) 100vw, 169px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_090143.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-2334 size-medium alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_090143-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_090143-300x169.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_090143-768x432.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/IMG_20180819_090143-1024x576.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div id=\"wp_fb_like_button\" style=\"margin:5px 0 5px 5px;float:right;height:8px;\"><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2316\" send=\"true\" layout=\"standard\" width=\"450\" show_faces=\"true\" font=\"verdana\" action=\"like\" colorscheme=\"light\"><\/fb:like><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ani n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho dne se n\u00e1m nepovedlo vyrazit o moc d\u0159\u00edve. A pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b jsme si vypl\u00e1cali \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed na zv\u00ed\u0159ata hned prvn\u00ed den, proto\u017ee krom\u011b antilop, slon\u016f, p\u0161tros\u016f a exotick\u00fdch pt\u00e1\u010dk\u016f, jsme nevid\u011bli \u017e\u00e1dnou \u0161elmu ani vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 zv\u00ed\u0159e. Nav\u00edc bylo extr\u00e9mn\u00ed horko. Kemp Letaba byl o dost m\u00e9n\u011b romantick\u00fd ne\u017e Babule, o dost v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a hlu\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Na\u0161i &hellip; <a class=\"read-excerpt\" href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=2316\">Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed&#8230; <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2316","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-afrika-2018-jar-mosambik"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2316","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2316"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2316\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2379,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2316\/revisions\/2379"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2316"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2316"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2316"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}