{"id":12097,"date":"2020-01-20T16:44:13","date_gmt":"2020-01-20T16:44:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=12097"},"modified":"2020-01-21T18:22:02","modified_gmt":"2020-01-21T18:22:02","slug":"rainbow-coast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=12097","title":{"rendered":"Rainbow Coast"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cesta pod\u00e9l pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed na z\u00e1pad n\u00e1s p\u0159ivedla do m\u011bste\u010dka Denmark u \u00fast\u00ed \u0159eky Harding River. N\u00e1zev m\u00edsta nebude kv\u016fli nadm\u011brn\u00e9 konzumaci alkoholu, ale pro \u010dast\u00e9 de\u0161t\u011b a ni\u017e\u0161\u00ed teploty. M\u011bste\u010dko docela p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9, s \u0159adou galeri\u00ed a kav\u00e1ren, kde jsme str\u00e1vili n\u011bjak\u00fd \u010das pit\u00edm dobr\u00e9 k\u00e1vy. Rozeklan\u00e9 a syrov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed z\u00e1padn\u011b od Albany, i d\u00edky de\u0161tiv\u011bj\u0161\u00edmu podneb\u00ed, se naz\u00fdv\u00e1 Rainbow Cost. Nejsou to ale jen skryt\u00e9 z\u00e1livy a mysy, ale i rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 lesy ohromn\u00fdch star\u00fdch blahovi\u010dn\u00edk\u016f. P\u0159enocovali jsme v mal\u00e9m kempu n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku D\u00b4Entrecasteaux. Kone\u010dn\u011b klidn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto bez \u0159vouc\u00edch harant\u016f jezd\u00edc\u00edch po kempech na kolech a kolob\u011b\u017ek\u00e1ch, p\u0159ed kter\u00fdmi jsme museli nejednou uskakovat… Zato n\u00e1s tu nav\u0161t\u00edvil led\u0148\u00e1k obrovsk\u00fd, kter\u00e9ho jsme sp\u00ed\u0161e v\u017edy jen sly\u0161eli a lehce rozpoznali podle jeho specifick\u00e9ho \u0159evu. Tentokr\u00e1t si n\u00e1s prohl\u00ed\u017eel p\u011bkn\u011b zbl\u00edzka a p\u0159edv\u00e1d\u011bl loveck\u00e9 um\u011bn\u00ed ve sv\u00e9m teritoriu. A taky n\u00e1s kone\u010dn\u011b nav\u0161t\u00edvil po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd pavouk, i kdy\u017e nejedovat\u00fd. Kouzeln\u00fd ve\u010der jsme zavr\u0161ili jako mnohokr\u00e1t na na\u0161ich cest\u00e1ch skv\u011blou ve\u010de\u0159\u00ed z grilu. Dnes to bylo na zelenin\u011b a v\u00edn\u011b pomalu d\u011blan\u00e9 jehn\u011b\u010d\u00ed \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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R\u00e1no jsme se vr\u00e1tili kousek zp\u011bt do n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho z\u00e1livu William Bay. Zasko\u010dilo n\u00e1s, kolik tu parkuje aut. V pr\u016fvodci jsme objevili informaci, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o snad<\/p>\n

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nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed. I p\u0159es zata\u017eenou oblohu a \u0161ediv\u00e9 mraky jez\u00edrko Green Pool na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, kter\u00e9 je od oce\u00e1nu \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b odd\u011blen\u00e9 balvany, tuto informaci opravdu potvrdilo. I za nevl\u00eddn\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed je z\u00e1liv s ohromn\u00fdmi balvany a nedalek\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u017ei\u010dka Elephant Cove, nazvan\u00e1 podle ohromn\u00fdch kamen\u016f p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00edch tvarem st\u00e1do slon\u016f, opravdu kouzeln\u00e1.<\/p>\n

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Silnice na v\u00fdchod lemuj\u00ed blahovi\u010dn\u00edkov\u00e9 lesy, kter\u00e9 se m\u011bn\u00ed v impozantn\u00ed gigantick\u00e9 obry – Valley of the Giants. Mezi t\u011bmi nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmi byla postavena stezka vedouc\u00ed jejich korunami. Druh Tingle jsou ty nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed stromy, karri maj\u00ed sv\u011btlou k\u016fru a marri tmavou. Takto ohromn\u00e9 eukalypty maj\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b m\u011blk\u00e9 a citliv\u00e9 ko\u0159eny, tak\u017ee kroky mnoha n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f by mohly tyto giganty zni\u010dit. Proto jsou vybudov\u00e1ny na zemi d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 chodn\u00ed\u010dky, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1s p\u0159ivedly k t\u011bm nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm strom\u016fm. Snad je\u0161t\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed byla proch\u00e1zka v kopc\u00edch nad m\u011bstem Walpolle k Giant tangle tree – t\u011bm nejmohutn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm eukalipt\u016fm a bez dav\u016f n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f.<\/p>\n

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Od Walpole, a\u017e po Augustou, je jedin\u00fdm m\u00edstem, kam se d\u00e1 b\u011b\u017en\u00fdm autem zajet na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, malink\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstav Windy Harbour. Pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je zde syrov\u00e9 a velmi v\u011btrn\u00e9, oce\u00e1n s velk\u00fdmi vlnami, siln\u00fdmi proudy a \u017eraloky nel\u00e1k\u00e1 ke koup\u00e1n\u00ed, ale m\u00edsto m\u00e1 ve sv\u00e9 syrovosti velk\u00fd p\u016fvab. Dlouh\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ee a rozeklan\u00e9 \u00fatesy nab\u00edz\u00ed zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy nebo t\u00fary.<\/p>\n

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Pemberton je mal\u00e9 d\u0159eva\u0159sk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko, kter\u00e9 je nejcentr\u00e1ln\u011bj\u0161\u00edm bodem k turistick\u00fdm v\u00fdprav\u00e1m po jihoz\u00e1padu. Prod\u00e1vaj\u00ed zde velk\u00e9 \u010dern\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed raky, kter\u00e9 se n\u00e1m ale tentokr\u00e1t, bohu\u017eel, nepoda\u0159ilo ochutnat. P\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd kemp se nach\u00e1z\u00ed nedaleko p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edho koupali\u0161t\u011b na potoce Lefroy Brook. Rann\u00ed kopel a plav\u00e1n\u00ed v \u010dist\u00e9 vod\u011b bylo p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdm zah\u00e1jen\u00edm nov\u00e9ho dne… Mal\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed nab\u00edz\u00ed v\u00fdlety po b\u00fdval\u00fdch t\u011b\u017ea\u0159sk\u00fdch kolej\u00edch do okoln\u00edch les\u016f. Cesta se, p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b, absolvuje starou tramvaj\u00ed \ud83d\ude42 Ta se kodrc\u00e1 po klikat\u00e9 \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed trati, p\u0159es d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 mosty spojuj\u00edc\u00ed b\u0159ehy mal\u00fdch \u0159\u00ed\u010dek a kon\u010d\u00ed v Cascades – kouzeln\u00e9m kout\u011b p\u0159ed uzav\u0159en\u00fdm mostem. Je\u0161t\u011b \u017ee velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti star\u00fdch blahovi\u010dn\u00edkov\u00fdch les\u016f byly vyhl\u00e1\u0161eny n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parkem a star\u00e9 stromy nebyly v\u0161echny vyk\u00e1ceny. Na ten nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed, Glocester Tree Jani\u010dka vy\u0161plhala a\u017e do b\u00fdval\u00e9 pozorovatelny po\u017e\u00e1r\u016f ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 52 metr\u016f.<\/p>\n

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Z Pembertonu n\u00e1s \u010dekala ji\u017e posledn\u00ed noc p\u0159ed n\u00e1vratem do Perthu. Cestou jsme ud\u011blali kr\u00e1tkou zast\u00e1vku v m\u011bste\u010dku Bridgetown, kter\u00e9 sv\u00fdmi obch\u016fdky vzd\u00e1len\u011b p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 dobu hippies. Posledn\u00ed noc jsem str\u00e1vili u p\u0159ehrady Wellington. B\u0159ehy se v\u00fdznamn\u011b zv\u011bt\u0161ily a voda ustoupila hodn\u011b daleko od m\u00edst, kam se do n\u00ed d\u0159\u00edve vstupovalo. Od konce sedmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch let zde toti\u017e chyb\u00ed ka\u017edo\u0159o\u010dn\u00ed velk\u00e9 de\u0161t\u011b, kter\u00e9 d\u0159\u00edve dok\u00e1zaly naplnit tuto ohromnou z\u00e1sob\u00e1rnu vody. Jednou, a mo\u017en\u00e1 to nebude trvat dlouho, voda za\u010dne doch\u00e1zet nejen v t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti Austr\u00e1lie…<\/p>\n

A potom u\u017e jen n\u00e1vrat do Perthu, balen\u00ed, v\u00fdprava za klokany do NP John Forrest, smutn\u00e9 a t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 lou\u010den\u00ed a \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed na odlet zp\u011bt z l\u00e9ta do zimy a b\u011b\u017en\u00fdch dn\u00ed…<\/p>\n

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