{"id":1011,"date":"2015-05-29T15:51:37","date_gmt":"2015-05-29T15:51:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=1011"},"modified":"2015-06-04T14:09:54","modified_gmt":"2015-06-04T14:09:54","slug":"teheran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=1011","title":{"rendered":"Teher\u00e1n"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>R\u00e1no jsme si je\u0161t\u011b jednou v Kerm\u00e1nu za\u0161li prohl\u00e9dnout star\u00fd bazar. V 11. hodin n\u00e1s Bahram\u00ed pozval s kamar\u00e1dem n\u011bkam na rozlu\u010dkov\u00fd piknik. P\u0159ed hotel p\u0159ijel na \u010das, ale kamar\u00e1d z\u016fstal n\u011bkde daleko p\u0159ed m\u011bstem, tak\u017ee z piknikov\u00e1n\u00ed se\u0161lo. Za\u0161li jsme tedy na \u010daj a dali si ve vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 &#8222;sendvi\u010d\u00e1rn\u011b&#8220; dvojit\u00fd m\u00edstn\u00ed hamburger, abychom se posilnili p\u0159ed 15.hodinovou cestou vlakem do Teher\u00e1nu.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006349582.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006349582\" class=\"alignright size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006349582.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nPo pe\u010dliv\u00e9 kontrole tajnou polici\u00ed p\u0159i vstupu na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed jsme kone\u010dn\u011b mohli nastoupit do vlaku a po druh\u00e9 hodin\u011b odpoledn\u00ed vyrazit. Vlak nebyl nejrychlej\u0161\u00ed, cesta ale v leh\u00e1tkov\u00e9m kup\u00e9 ub\u00edhala a za oknem se m\u011bnila scen\u00e9rie. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli jsme pou\u0161ti, kde n\u00e1s dohnala bou\u0159ka a my vid\u011bli ohromn\u00e9 kalu\u017ee vody v p\u00edsku.<br \/>\nPo\u010d\u00edtali jsme s n\u011bjak\u00fdm obvykl\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm, ale ve \u010dty\u0159i r\u00e1no m\u00e1m sebrali deky a za p\u016flhodinku jsme p\u0159ijeli na teher\u00e1nsk\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. Zkusili jsme n\u011bco dospat na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed a kolem osm\u00e9 jsme se vydali naj\u00edt ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006449290.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006449290\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006449290.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nRychle jsme metrem vyrazili do severn\u00edho Teher\u00e1nu, kde se za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed zvedat poho\u0159\u00ed \u00c1lborz s nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholem ve v\u00fd\u0161ce t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 4 000 metr\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Teher\u00e1n je rychle rostouc\u00ed megapole. Odhaduje se, \u017ee ze \u017eije asi 15 milion\u016f obyvatel a pokud r\u016fst bude takto pokra\u010dovat, za\u0159ad\u00ed se mezi p\u011bt nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch m\u011bst na sv\u011bt\u011b.<br \/>\nTeher\u00e1n byl do 13. stolet\u00ed malou vesnic\u00ed. V 16.stolet\u00ed v saf\u00edjovsk\u00e9m obdob\u00ed bylo m\u011bsto opevn\u011bno hradbami a vystav\u011blo se mnoho dom\u016f. Pozd\u011bji zde byla vybudov\u00e1na kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e1 rezidence a od 18.stolet\u00ed se stal centrem zem\u011b.<\/p>\n<p>Do hor vede jedna z nejdel\u0161\u00edch lanovek na sv\u011bt\u011b, kter\u00e1 vyv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky do p\u00e1t\u00e9ho nejv\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017een\u00e9ho ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00e9ho st\u0159ediska na sv\u011bt\u011b.<br \/>\nI v t\u011bchto dnech byly v hor\u00e1ch je\u0161t\u011b zbytky sn\u011bhu. Vystoupali jsme na 3962 metr\u016f vysok\u00fd vrchol To\u010dal.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006521065.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006521065\" class=\"alignright size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006521065.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nT\u00edm jsme b\u011bhem 48.hodin zm\u011bnili nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku o 3500 metr\u016f a teplotu o 40 stup\u0148\u016f Celsia v porovn\u00e1n\u00ed s Kalucem v pou\u0161ti L\u00fat (!).<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006589378.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006589378\" class=\"aligncenter size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006589378.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>K ve\u010deru jsme brouzdali Darbanem, co\u017e je obl\u00edben\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st presti\u017en\u00ed \u010dtvrti na \u00fapat\u00ed \u00c1lborzu. K ve\u010deru zde proud\u00ed davy mlad\u00fdch, zlat\u00e9 ml\u00e1de\u017ee, cel\u00fdch rodin i star\u0161\u00edch p\u00e1r\u016f, aby posed\u011bli v n\u011bkter\u00e9 z \u010dajoven um\u00edst\u011bn\u00fdch t\u0159eba p\u0159\u00edmo na horsk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u010dce, dali si n\u011bco dobr\u00e9ho k ve\u010de\u0159i v jedn\u00e9 z mnoha restaurac\u00ed na \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed prudce se zved\u00e1j\u00edc\u00edch se kopc\u016f nebo vyrazili d\u00e1l do hor, t\u0159eba a\u017e na vrchol To\u010dalu.<br \/>\nTeprve z t\u011bchto m\u00edst je vid\u011bt, jak je Teher\u00e1n p\u0159ikryt\u00fd pod pokli\u010dkou smogu i d\u00edky mili\u00f3nu aut, kter\u00e1 te\u010dou v n\u011bkolika pruz\u00edch m\u011bstem jako \u0159eka. Vlastn\u011b vid\u011bt t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nen\u00ed&#8230; <\/p>\n<p>My jsme si dali vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmku v p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 \u010dajovn\u011b, abychom zrelaxovali po n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9m dni.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006721431.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006721431\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006721431.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>Dokonalou te\u010dkou prvn\u00edho teher\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho dne byl objev skv\u011bl\u00e9 j\u00eddelny, kde jsme kone\u010dn\u011b mohli ochutnat n\u011bco z pest\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. A taky jsme se nechutn\u011b p\u0159e..<br \/>\njedli.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006785199.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006785199\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006785199.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nDal\u0161\u00ed den jsme za\u0161li na m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed trh. Takov\u00fd teher\u00e1nsk\u00fd megable\u0161\u00e1k v n\u011bkolika patrech parkovac\u00edho dom\u016f. Zde by se dalo asi sehnat v\u0161e, na\u010d si \u010dlov\u011bk vzpomene. <\/p>\n<p>Po zast\u00e1vce v typick\u00e9 &#8222;\u0161\u00ed\u0161\u00e1rn\u011b&#8220; jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili <a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006856772.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006856772\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006856772.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nN\u00e1rodn\u00ed muzeum, kde jsou expon\u00e1ty p\u0159edisl\u00e1msk\u00e9 doby. Tedy i mnoho objev\u016f z obdob\u00ed Persk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e a jednoho z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u011bst t\u00e9 doby &#8211; Persepole.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007086112.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433007086112\" class=\"aligncenter size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007086112.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>Zastavili jsme se u b\u00fdval\u00e9 americk\u00e9 ambas\u00e1dy, kde se v dob\u011b isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 revoluce odehr\u00e1valy v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 ud\u00e1losti. \u010c\u00e1st z nich nap\u00ednav\u011b popisuje film Argo. Ten je tu ov\u0161em zak\u00e1zan\u00fd&#8230; Zdi b\u00fdval\u00e9ho velvyslanectv\u00ed dodnes zdob\u00ed protiamerick\u00e9 a protiizraelsk\u00e9 n\u00e1pisy. Neodolali jsme a chv\u00edli si je fotili, ale brzy jsme pro jistotu m\u00edsto rad\u011bji opustili. Budova toti\u017e slou\u017eila dlouhou dobu jako v\u00fdcvikov\u00e9 st\u0159edisko isl\u00e1msk\u00fdch gard&#8230;<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006925287.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006925287\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006925287.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006950584.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433006950584\" class=\"alignright size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433006950584.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>Den byl n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd i proto, \u017ee bylo pod mrakem a neskute\u010dn\u00e9 dusno v kombinaci se smogem. Nav\u00edc byl p\u00e1tek, tedy den pracovn\u00edho klidu, kdy je p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b zav\u0159eno. Byli jsme tedy r\u00e1di, kdy\u017e jsme se v podve\u010der doplou\u017eili do hotelu a mohli si odpo\u010dinout.<\/p>\n<p>Posledn\u00ed den jsme napl\u00e1novali n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Golest\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho pal\u00e1ce, kter\u00fd je siln\u011b inspirov\u00e1n s\u00eddly evropsk\u00fdch panovn\u00edk\u016f.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007021890.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433007021890\" class=\"alignleft size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007021890.jpeg\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nVe velk\u00e9m audien\u010dn\u00edm s\u00e1le prob\u00edhaly d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 ud\u00e1losti posledn\u00edch 100 let \u0161\u00e1hovsk\u00e9ho \u00cdr\u00e1nu, v\u010detn\u011b korunovac\u00ed Q\u00e1d\u017e\u00e1rovsk\u00fdch \u0161\u00e1h\u016f. V\u00fdzdoba s\u00e1l\u016f je uchvacuj\u00edc\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p>Obraz tohoto obdob\u00ed m\u00e1m doplnila n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva N\u00e1rodn\u00ed pokladnice v Centr\u00e1ln\u00ed \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9 bance. V ohromn\u00e9m podzemn\u00edm trezoru jsou vystaveny korunova\u010dn\u00ed klenoty, \u0161perky a p\u0159edm\u011bty neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9 hodnoty t\u00e9to \u00e9ry. Chcete vid\u011bt nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed drahokamy? \u010cern\u00e9 diamanty?  \u017dlut\u00e9 diamanty? Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed neroz\u0159ezan\u00fd diamant na sv\u011bt\u011b v\u00e1\u017e\u00edc\u00ed 182 kar\u00e1t\u016f? Hromady rub\u00edn\u016f, smaragd\u016f? Poklady jako z Poh\u00e1dek 1000 + 1 noci. Nebo z Alibaby a 40 loupe\u017en\u00edk\u016f..<\/p>\n<p>Nemohli jsme vynechat n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu bazaru. 15 kilometr\u016f uli\u010dek obchod\u016f m\u011bsta ve m\u011bst\u011b. Davy lid\u00ed, proud v\u0161emo\u017en\u00e9ho zbo\u017e\u00ed&#8230;n\u00e1kupn\u00ed \u0161\u00edlenstv\u00ed. Ale trochu jin\u00e9, ne\u017e v na\u0161ich &#8222;bazarech&#8220; nastojato &#8211; n\u00e1kupn\u00edch centrech.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007187449.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"wp-1433007187449\" class=\"alignnone size-full\"  alt=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/wpid-wp-1433007187449.jpeg\" \/><\/a> <\/p>\n<p>Z posledn\u00edch sil a pen\u011bz jsme nakoupili d\u00e1rky a z \u00fapln\u011b posledn\u00edch pen\u011bz zaplatili jedno grilovan\u00e9 ku\u0159\u00e1tko, o kter\u00e9 jsme se v\u0161ichni pod\u011blili.<br \/>\nLe\u017e\u00edme v hotelov\u00e9m pokoji a za p\u00e1r hodin n\u00e1s odveze taxi na leti\u0161t\u011b a bude definitivn\u00ed konec dal\u0161\u00edho putov\u00e1n\u00ed po zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 zemi s p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdm lidmi&#8230;<\/p>\n<div id=\"wp_fb_like_button\" style=\"margin:5px 0 5px 5px;float:right;height:8px;\"><script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=1011\" send=\"true\" layout=\"standard\" width=\"450\" show_faces=\"true\" font=\"verdana\" action=\"like\" colorscheme=\"light\"><\/fb:like><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>R\u00e1no jsme si je\u0161t\u011b jednou v Kerm\u00e1nu za\u0161li prohl\u00e9dnout star\u00fd bazar. V 11. hodin n\u00e1s Bahram\u00ed pozval s kamar\u00e1dem n\u011bkam na rozlu\u010dkov\u00fd piknik. P\u0159ed hotel p\u0159ijel na \u010das, ale kamar\u00e1d z\u016fstal n\u011bkde daleko p\u0159ed m\u011bstem, tak\u017ee z piknikov\u00e1n\u00ed se\u0161lo. Za\u0161li jsme tedy na \u010daj a dali si ve vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 &#8222;sendvi\u010d\u00e1rn\u011b&#8220; dvojit\u00fd m\u00edstn\u00ed hamburger, abychom se &hellip; <a class=\"read-excerpt\" href=\"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/?p=1011\">Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed&#8230; <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1011","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cesta-do-persie-iran-2015-2"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1011","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1011"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1011\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1031,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1011\/revisions\/1031"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1011"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1011"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.schwarzovi.eu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1011"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}